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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 262056" data-attributes="member: 12496">OK, so you are assuming that Auto ISO ought to take care of all changing conditions.But...the range exceeds your expectations. There can be like 12 EV difference between snow in sunshine, and a more dim indoor scene.But&nbsp; ISO 100 to ISO 3200 is only&nbsp; 5 EV&nbsp; (i.e., insufficient range).&nbsp;&nbsp; So,&nbsp; you are going to need some revised settings in these two situations.So indoors in dim light, set a wider&nbsp; aperture.&nbsp; You said 1 second shutter, not sure of your goal, but apparently it is working OK.But you cannot use 1 second in bright sun on the snow.&nbsp;&nbsp; Simply unreasonable. You will get a bright white picture.&nbsp;&nbsp; <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />&nbsp;&nbsp; So when out there, reach up and change settings to 1/400 second, and stop lens down, to like f/8&nbsp; (Sunny 16).&nbsp; Auto ISO might handle that.I am not sure Auto ISO can even work if the camera cannot meter non-cpu lenses?&nbsp;&nbsp; My own models have metered with non-cpu lenses, so I don't know.&nbsp; But if the camera cannot meter to adjust shutter speed, ISO does not seem a good bet?Speaking of Sunny 16, it is the information you need to know outdoors.&nbsp; Sunny 16 is what we used in the old days, before light meters were in cameras, and before we could afford to buy a light meter.&nbsp; Every roll of Kodak film came with a Sunny 16 sheet of instructions.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is not precise, our own judging of the light situation could be off 1/2 stop or more, but the wide latitude of B&amp;W negative film covered it, and now Auto ISO should easily cover it, if it works.Basic rule of thumb for exposure outdoors is:Shutter speed:&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; 1/ISO is the shutter speed.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; ISO 100, that is 1/100 second.&nbsp; ISO 400, 1/400 second. Bright sun - dark sharp shadows - the correct exposure is f/16&nbsp; (at above shutter speed)Slight overcast (soft edges on shadows), open a stop to f/11Overcast (shadows barely visible, but not absent), open another stop, f/8Heavy overcast (no shadows), open another stop, f/5.6Open shade (blue sky visible, but not the sun), open another stop, f/4And Equivalent Exposures work too...1/100 f/161/200 f/111/400 f/81/800 f/5.61/1600 f/4These are all equivalent exposures.&nbsp;&nbsp; Basics of photography.Search Google for Sunny 16 - it is all over.&nbsp;&nbsp; Not quite precise enough for digital today, but still valid, and a&nbsp; fantastic starting place, and Auto ISO will easily have range for it, if it works with non-cpu lenses.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 262056, member: 12496"] OK, so you are assuming that Auto ISO ought to take care of all changing conditions. But...the range exceeds your expectations. There can be like 12 EV difference between snow in sunshine, and a more dim indoor scene. But ISO 100 to ISO 3200 is only 5 EV (i.e., insufficient range). So, you are going to need some revised settings in these two situations. So indoors in dim light, set a wider aperture. You said 1 second shutter, not sure of your goal, but apparently it is working OK. But you cannot use 1 second in bright sun on the snow. Simply unreasonable. You will get a bright white picture. :) So when out there, reach up and change settings to 1/400 second, and stop lens down, to like f/8 (Sunny 16). Auto ISO might handle that. I am not sure Auto ISO can even work if the camera cannot meter non-cpu lenses? My own models have metered with non-cpu lenses, so I don't know. But if the camera cannot meter to adjust shutter speed, ISO does not seem a good bet? Speaking of Sunny 16, it is the information you need to know outdoors. Sunny 16 is what we used in the old days, before light meters were in cameras, and before we could afford to buy a light meter. Every roll of Kodak film came with a Sunny 16 sheet of instructions. It is not precise, our own judging of the light situation could be off 1/2 stop or more, but the wide latitude of B&W negative film covered it, and now Auto ISO should easily cover it, if it works. Basic rule of thumb for exposure outdoors is: Shutter speed: 1/ISO is the shutter speed. ISO 100, that is 1/100 second. ISO 400, 1/400 second. Bright sun - dark sharp shadows - the correct exposure is f/16 (at above shutter speed) Slight overcast (soft edges on shadows), open a stop to f/11 Overcast (shadows barely visible, but not absent), open another stop, f/8 Heavy overcast (no shadows), open another stop, f/5.6 Open shade (blue sky visible, but not the sun), open another stop, f/4 And Equivalent Exposures work too... 1/100 f/16 1/200 f/11 1/400 f/8 1/800 f/5.6 1/1600 f/4 These are all equivalent exposures. Basics of photography. Search Google for Sunny 16 - it is all over. Not quite precise enough for digital today, but still valid, and a fantastic starting place, and Auto ISO will easily have range for it, if it works with non-cpu lenses. [/QUOTE]

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