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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3400
Newbie's (blackstar) Moon Shot questions and helps
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<blockquote data-quote="Horoscope Fish" data-source="post: 723642" data-attributes="member: 13090"><p>I don't think you're going to find exact answers to these questions since those answers probably have to do with the algorithm(s) used by the camera to determine exposure settings. </p><p></p><p>In Program mode you chose the aperture/shutter-speed combination. In full Auto, the camera selected the aperture/shutter-speed combination. Both modes allowed Auto-ISO to control the brightness of the overall image in relation to exposure. That's easy enough. </p><p></p><p>Here's where I start making assumptions... </p><p></p><p>I'm thinking when you chose the slower shutter-speed of 1/25 Auto-ISO chose the lowest possible setting to give the shot an acceptable overall brightness. In full Auto mode the camera chose a combination of exposure settings, including a shutter speed safe enough, most likely, for a steady hand-held shot at a moderate aperture, one small enough for a reasonable depth of field based on subject distance that still allowed for the previously mentioned reasonable shutter speed. Once the algorithm determined what exposure settings to use (in this case f/5.3 @ 1/80) Auto ISO determined the lowest possible ISO to use that would ensure an acceptable overall brightness to the image. Since you didn't lower the maximum ISO Auto ISO could choose from (say, ISO 400) the algorithm went with IS0 11,400 to ensure a reasonably bright image. It's all a big balancing act.</p><p></p><p>Personally, I don't think either mode is better than another since they essentially do the same thing. Left to its own devices regarding exposure your camera will do its best to take a "middle path". It doesn't make creative decisions about things like highlights vs shadows; it meters for Middle Grey (aka "18% Grey", "15% Grey", whatever you want to call it) and attempts to balance out all the settings it has to work with so you wind up with a shot you will, most likely, be at least reasonably happy with. If you want to start taking more control of how your images look straight out the camera, you'll have to learn about exposure, how the meter in your camera "thinks" about exposure, how to compensate for how it "thinks" and the different meting modes themselves. This is not hard to do since the meter is a pretty simple device and once you understand it always want to take that Middle Path, working with it becomes really easy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Horoscope Fish, post: 723642, member: 13090"] I don't think you're going to find exact answers to these questions since those answers probably have to do with the algorithm(s) used by the camera to determine exposure settings. In Program mode you chose the aperture/shutter-speed combination. In full Auto, the camera selected the aperture/shutter-speed combination. Both modes allowed Auto-ISO to control the brightness of the overall image in relation to exposure. That's easy enough. Here's where I start making assumptions... I'm thinking when you chose the slower shutter-speed of 1/25 Auto-ISO chose the lowest possible setting to give the shot an acceptable overall brightness. In full Auto mode the camera chose a combination of exposure settings, including a shutter speed safe enough, most likely, for a steady hand-held shot at a moderate aperture, one small enough for a reasonable depth of field based on subject distance that still allowed for the previously mentioned reasonable shutter speed. Once the algorithm determined what exposure settings to use (in this case f/5.3 @ 1/80) Auto ISO determined the lowest possible ISO to use that would ensure an acceptable overall brightness to the image. Since you didn't lower the maximum ISO Auto ISO could choose from (say, ISO 400) the algorithm went with IS0 11,400 to ensure a reasonably bright image. It's all a big balancing act. Personally, I don't think either mode is better than another since they essentially do the same thing. Left to its own devices regarding exposure your camera will do its best to take a "middle path". It doesn't make creative decisions about things like highlights vs shadows; it meters for Middle Grey (aka "18% Grey", "15% Grey", whatever you want to call it) and attempts to balance out all the settings it has to work with so you wind up with a shot you will, most likely, be at least reasonably happy with. If you want to start taking more control of how your images look straight out the camera, you'll have to learn about exposure, how the meter in your camera "thinks" about exposure, how to compensate for how it "thinks" and the different meting modes themselves. This is not hard to do since the meter is a pretty simple device and once you understand it always want to take that Middle Path, working with it becomes really easy. [/QUOTE]
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Newbie's (blackstar) Moon Shot questions and helps
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