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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3100
New to d3100, have comp issue w/ older (~1987) Nikon series E Zoom 75-150 mm lens
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<blockquote data-quote="PavementPilot" data-source="post: 24716" data-attributes="member: 4024"><p>Ok you have one great advantage with this lens, and that is it is a constant f/stop through the zoom range, indicated by the single f/stop number in the specs. That means once you get proper exposure, you will not have to change it, unless the lighting changes, when you zoom. If a lens reads for example like my lens, 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6, then the aperture changes with the zoom. That makes for issues when using it without the camera metering for me. </p><p> </p><p>Your lens going all the way to f/32 is nice for distance scenery. As for terminalogy, it is easy to pick up. I would strongly suggest you read the book I indicated earlier. I came from a PAS (point and shoot) and this book taught me the three key elements to correct exposure, and how the relate to each other. This is known as the exposure triangle.</p><p> </p><p>To start you off, DOF is Depth of Field, and that is controlled by the aperture, known as f/stop. The smaller the number, the shallower the DOF, so your subject is in focus but behind and in front will be Out Of Focus (OOF), meaning blurry. The larger the number, the more DOF you have. One other thing to remember is the smaller the f/stop number the larger the opening is, the larger the number the smaller the hole is. But do not get confused by it. Shutter speed controls the speed of the shutter, and with slower shutter speeds, you will get blur if you move, but sometimes you want this, to imply motion, such as following a speeding car. A faster speed will freeze motion, with crisp detail. Think jogger with both feet off the ground, frozen and in crisp detail. ISO is the same as film, it is the sensitivity to light. Think of your sensor as film, and ISO makes sense. With the D3100 you can shoot at 800 with practically no noise (grain in film), and 1600 is starts to show up and can be corrected in post production (PP) (editting you shots on the computer). At 3200 it is very noticable but still correctable. Higher than that you can correct in PP, but it is still noticable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PavementPilot, post: 24716, member: 4024"] Ok you have one great advantage with this lens, and that is it is a constant f/stop through the zoom range, indicated by the single f/stop number in the specs. That means once you get proper exposure, you will not have to change it, unless the lighting changes, when you zoom. If a lens reads for example like my lens, 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6, then the aperture changes with the zoom. That makes for issues when using it without the camera metering for me. Your lens going all the way to f/32 is nice for distance scenery. As for terminalogy, it is easy to pick up. I would strongly suggest you read the book I indicated earlier. I came from a PAS (point and shoot) and this book taught me the three key elements to correct exposure, and how the relate to each other. This is known as the exposure triangle. To start you off, DOF is Depth of Field, and that is controlled by the aperture, known as f/stop. The smaller the number, the shallower the DOF, so your subject is in focus but behind and in front will be Out Of Focus (OOF), meaning blurry. The larger the number, the more DOF you have. One other thing to remember is the smaller the f/stop number the larger the opening is, the larger the number the smaller the hole is. But do not get confused by it. Shutter speed controls the speed of the shutter, and with slower shutter speeds, you will get blur if you move, but sometimes you want this, to imply motion, such as following a speeding car. A faster speed will freeze motion, with crisp detail. Think jogger with both feet off the ground, frozen and in crisp detail. ISO is the same as film, it is the sensitivity to light. Think of your sensor as film, and ISO makes sense. With the D3100 you can shoot at 800 with practically no noise (grain in film), and 1600 is starts to show up and can be corrected in post production (PP) (editting you shots on the computer). At 3200 it is very noticable but still correctable. Higher than that you can correct in PP, but it is still noticable. [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3100
New to d3100, have comp issue w/ older (~1987) Nikon series E Zoom 75-150 mm lens
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