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<blockquote data-quote="pforsell" data-source="post: 667899" data-attributes="member: 7240">I haven't used a motorized pano head and I think that it might be overkill. Sometimes a manual pano head might be useful, though.I personally use an old Nodal Ninja 3 when shooting in environments where I need to get rid of parallax errors. You don't have to worry about parallax if you are only shooting faraway subjects (remote city skylines, remote shores etc.), but if there's also subjects close by, you need tor find the entrance pupil location of your lens, or the stitching can't be done, or the result will be rubbish.Here's a list of common entrance pupil locations: <a href="https://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database" target="_blank">https://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database</a>Nodal Ninja 3 has a scale which makes it trivial to set the camera/lens combo so that it rotates around the entrance pupil and eliminates parallax errors.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="pforsell, post: 667899, member: 7240"] I haven't used a motorized pano head and I think that it might be overkill. Sometimes a manual pano head might be useful, though. I personally use an old Nodal Ninja 3 when shooting in environments where I need to get rid of parallax errors. You don't have to worry about parallax if you are only shooting faraway subjects (remote city skylines, remote shores etc.), but if there's also subjects close by, you need tor find the entrance pupil location of your lens, or the stitching can't be done, or the result will be rubbish. Here's a list of common entrance pupil locations: [url]https://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database[/url] Nodal Ninja 3 has a scale which makes it trivial to set the camera/lens combo so that it rotates around the entrance pupil and eliminates parallax errors. [/QUOTE]

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