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General Photography
Landscape
Need review on my landscape photo experiment
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<blockquote data-quote="crycocyon" data-source="post: 738958" data-attributes="member: 13076"><p>The modes were created only to afford a shortcut to combinations of aperture/shutter speed/ISO. If you like to have more control over a photograph, then you can go from AUTO or program mode (everything is set automatically) to one of the S (shutter priority...you set shutter speed, camera sets aperture) or A (aperture priority, you set aperture, camera sets shutter speed). Usually aperture priority is fine if you wish to maintain control over depth of field, but don't really care what shutter speed the camera chooses (within reason ofc like not below 1/30th of a second to avoid camera shake). If you like full control, then M (manual mode) is your ticket and then you can set both aperture and shutter speed. It also depends on how quickly you shoot. If it is a bright sunny day, ISO 100 is fine, if it is evening or indoors then you might need ISO 400-1600. But with your lens the camera will be trying to go max aperture anyway when it's darker, or upping the ISO a lot making the images noiser. If you are still learning the ropes it is good to try aperture priority so you learn more about the effects of changing aperture with changes in depth of field and composition. When I started out that's what I did. I also learned to underexpose -0.3 to -0.5 stop so that the images don't seem too bright. Japanese cameras might meter to average but they are also biased on consumer cameras to make a scene look vivid so by underexposing a bit you bright down some of those overly bright tones and reduce highlights somewhat. Of course the experienced photographers here would want you to go full manual all the time, but we all have a learning curve as well and the other modes are useful even to pros (ie: shutter priority is useful when shooting sports in changing lighting conditions). It's also important to find a center of interest and then use the rule of thirds in composing around that center of interest. Think about where the viewer's eye would be led to in the photo, rather than being lost in a mix of things that do not have a real driving interest.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="crycocyon, post: 738958, member: 13076"] The modes were created only to afford a shortcut to combinations of aperture/shutter speed/ISO. If you like to have more control over a photograph, then you can go from AUTO or program mode (everything is set automatically) to one of the S (shutter priority...you set shutter speed, camera sets aperture) or A (aperture priority, you set aperture, camera sets shutter speed). Usually aperture priority is fine if you wish to maintain control over depth of field, but don't really care what shutter speed the camera chooses (within reason ofc like not below 1/30th of a second to avoid camera shake). If you like full control, then M (manual mode) is your ticket and then you can set both aperture and shutter speed. It also depends on how quickly you shoot. If it is a bright sunny day, ISO 100 is fine, if it is evening or indoors then you might need ISO 400-1600. But with your lens the camera will be trying to go max aperture anyway when it's darker, or upping the ISO a lot making the images noiser. If you are still learning the ropes it is good to try aperture priority so you learn more about the effects of changing aperture with changes in depth of field and composition. When I started out that's what I did. I also learned to underexpose -0.3 to -0.5 stop so that the images don't seem too bright. Japanese cameras might meter to average but they are also biased on consumer cameras to make a scene look vivid so by underexposing a bit you bright down some of those overly bright tones and reduce highlights somewhat. Of course the experienced photographers here would want you to go full manual all the time, but we all have a learning curve as well and the other modes are useful even to pros (ie: shutter priority is useful when shooting sports in changing lighting conditions). It's also important to find a center of interest and then use the rule of thirds in composing around that center of interest. Think about where the viewer's eye would be led to in the photo, rather than being lost in a mix of things that do not have a real driving interest. [/QUOTE]
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Need review on my landscape photo experiment
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