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Need input on 100mm and 300mm manual primes
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<blockquote data-quote="salukfan111" data-source="post: 517328" data-attributes="member: 39212"><p>Gustafson</p><p>You can program your new camera with what MF lens you are using (if you are so inclined) and there is MF assist (arrows and dot). For getting into super awesome telephoto stuff, get a TC 16a (auto focusing teleconverter) but make sure it is modified to work on your camera (180 ish ebay) and there are great MF telephotos that work great with it. If you buy MF make absolutely sure the lens are ai'd (it will say in description)</p><p></p><p>I'll give you a breakdown of the cheapest way to get into full spectrum shooting for the least money.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>Look for a nikkor 180mm f/2.8 (screw drive AF), this will do for regular telephoto stuff and is super sharp (crop all you want). 300 or a little more on ebay. Unless you need super fast focusing, this would be better for you than the similarly priced 70-300 vrg most folks have. Unless you are shooting birds you may want to just get this lens and hold off on long glass for a bit. If you've got a screw drive camera it is hard to justify not owning this lens.</p><p></p><p>Telephoto (for when you want long - I'd hold off for now unless you bird watch)</p><p>TC 16a TC modified for D7xxxx (you have to use in aperture mode gives 1.6x and turns MF into AF) 180 ebay</p><p>MF 300mm f/4.5 edif 150 ebay (light enough to lug around all day low elements)</p><p>MF 400mm f/5.6 edif 300 ebay (light enough to lug arond all day low elements)</p><p></p><p>The 300 option will get you to 300 x 1.6 x 1.5 (dx crop) x 1.3x (additional crop) ~ 1000 mm f/8 ish for 350 (the 400 option will give around 1250mm effective for a little more)</p><p></p><p>The 300mm produced most of the Nat Geo pics yous drooled over as a kid.</p><p>------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>Keep your 18-55 for awhile and upgrade to a 20-35 f/2.8 (screw drive famous pro lens) or a 18-35mm sometime in the future (good deals on ebay).</p><p>_____________________________________________________________________</p><p>Get a 28-85 (screw drive 60 bucks ebay) or a 24-85 (better lens 200 ish ebay). There is a 35-70 f/2.8 (screw drive 250 ish) if you want a famous pro lens. I own all three and truthfully the 28-85 spends more time on my camera than all my other lens combined.</p><p>_________________________________________________________________</p><p>Nikkor 135mm MF f/2.8 (150 ebay the f/3.5 even cheaper) OR 105mm f/2.5</p><p>There is a Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AF that is around 400 bucks if you want to skip the MF as a starting point.</p><p>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>Nikkor 200mm MF f/4 (macro and really sharp 100 bucks ebay), you'll need to fix CA in Lightroom on the Macro pretty great lens otherwise.</p><p></p><p>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>Voigtlander 58mm f/1.4 MF (400 ebay) words can't even describe this lens.</p><p></p><p>The various 50mm nikkor pancakes (f/1.8) are dirt cheap (less than 50) and nice too.</p><p>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>If you want a longer zoom nikkor 80-200 mm f/2.8 (don't get the push pull and be sure it is screw drive). Unless you need super fast focus this is a nice famous lens you can get for 300 ish ebay.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="salukfan111, post: 517328, member: 39212"] Gustafson You can program your new camera with what MF lens you are using (if you are so inclined) and there is MF assist (arrows and dot). For getting into super awesome telephoto stuff, get a TC 16a (auto focusing teleconverter) but make sure it is modified to work on your camera (180 ish ebay) and there are great MF telephotos that work great with it. If you buy MF make absolutely sure the lens are ai'd (it will say in description) I'll give you a breakdown of the cheapest way to get into full spectrum shooting for the least money. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Look for a nikkor 180mm f/2.8 (screw drive AF), this will do for regular telephoto stuff and is super sharp (crop all you want). 300 or a little more on ebay. Unless you need super fast focusing, this would be better for you than the similarly priced 70-300 vrg most folks have. Unless you are shooting birds you may want to just get this lens and hold off on long glass for a bit. If you've got a screw drive camera it is hard to justify not owning this lens. Telephoto (for when you want long - I'd hold off for now unless you bird watch) TC 16a TC modified for D7xxxx (you have to use in aperture mode gives 1.6x and turns MF into AF) 180 ebay MF 300mm f/4.5 edif 150 ebay (light enough to lug around all day low elements) MF 400mm f/5.6 edif 300 ebay (light enough to lug arond all day low elements) The 300 option will get you to 300 x 1.6 x 1.5 (dx crop) x 1.3x (additional crop) ~ 1000 mm f/8 ish for 350 (the 400 option will give around 1250mm effective for a little more) The 300mm produced most of the Nat Geo pics yous drooled over as a kid. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Keep your 18-55 for awhile and upgrade to a 20-35 f/2.8 (screw drive famous pro lens) or a 18-35mm sometime in the future (good deals on ebay). _____________________________________________________________________ Get a 28-85 (screw drive 60 bucks ebay) or a 24-85 (better lens 200 ish ebay). There is a 35-70 f/2.8 (screw drive 250 ish) if you want a famous pro lens. I own all three and truthfully the 28-85 spends more time on my camera than all my other lens combined. _________________________________________________________________ Nikkor 135mm MF f/2.8 (150 ebay the f/3.5 even cheaper) OR 105mm f/2.5 There is a Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AF that is around 400 bucks if you want to skip the MF as a starting point. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nikkor 200mm MF f/4 (macro and really sharp 100 bucks ebay), you'll need to fix CA in Lightroom on the Macro pretty great lens otherwise. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Voigtlander 58mm f/1.4 MF (400 ebay) words can't even describe this lens. The various 50mm nikkor pancakes (f/1.8) are dirt cheap (less than 50) and nice too. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you want a longer zoom nikkor 80-200 mm f/2.8 (don't get the push pull and be sure it is screw drive). Unless you need super fast focus this is a nice famous lens you can get for 300 ish ebay. [/QUOTE]
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Need input on 100mm and 300mm manual primes
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