Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Learning
Photography Q&A
Need help with my images - Not coming out sharp!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 516691" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>So much ISO is not necessary with the larger flash. A direct flash exposes the subject and the room behind is generally left dark. But if bounced up, then the flash tends to better fill the whole room (a regular size room anyway). </p><p></p><p>You must have set the ISO 2500 as Minimum. The Exif says Auto exposure mode, so it would have been Auto ISO on, and the recent models (D7200) should have limited Auto ISO to 2 stops increase from minimum. But I suppose we can still set the Minimum to be high. If you had left minimum at 100, then Auto ISO would have stopped increasing at ISO 400 (if with a hot shoe flash). There is good reason for that. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> Using flash instead.</p><p></p><p>So you are using bounce, great. There is a little shadow under chins, I should have noticed, but 1) ISO 2500 really increases the ambient exposure, and 2) the lack of shadow gradients on the faces suggests considerable forward fill. Which does cause good forward catchlights in eyes, which is good (some forward fill is good), but I was looking at the highlights on the faces, which suggest a bit too much forward? Maybe just ISO, or maybe the bounce card, or maybe the back wall was reflecting a lot of it... Anyway, that becomes arbitrary, about lighting, subject to personal opinions.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>1/60 is MINUMUM based on 1.5x cropped focal length at 44mm. Not optimum, but MINIMUM. The speedlight would help a lot, except ISO 2500 lets the ambient butt in. Also, Auto, A or P modes will always set 1/60 second MINIMUM with flash (or rather, it is the default Minimum in the E2 menu). Indoors with flash (dim where we need flash), automation will always set a wide open lens at 1/60 second. We can choose other settings.</p><p></p><p>I believe you can set the D7200 Auto ISO minimum shutter speed to a value called Auto, which should use the 1/focal length rule as minimum (in auto modes). But indoors, that minimum will always be the value used for all pictures activating Auto ISO. Except the E2 menu minimum can always override if flash in A, P, or Auto.</p><p></p><p></p><p>One time, try a similar test, camera M mode (indoors, where ambient exposure is far down, so does not matter), with ISO 400, f/5.6, and 1/200 second shutter speed. This does not affect the flash, the flash does what the TTL camera meters it needs to do at the settings discovered to be in effect. The speedlight stops the motion, the 1/200 second merely keeps the ambient out, which keeps the orange incandescent out (rear walls in room). 1/60 second in camera A mode would allow a bit of the orange in, giving it a bit more warm color, which some do like. But keeping ISO lower reduces risk of the metered ambient being able to blur motion that the speedlight would have stopped.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 516691, member: 12496"] So much ISO is not necessary with the larger flash. A direct flash exposes the subject and the room behind is generally left dark. But if bounced up, then the flash tends to better fill the whole room (a regular size room anyway). You must have set the ISO 2500 as Minimum. The Exif says Auto exposure mode, so it would have been Auto ISO on, and the recent models (D7200) should have limited Auto ISO to 2 stops increase from minimum. But I suppose we can still set the Minimum to be high. If you had left minimum at 100, then Auto ISO would have stopped increasing at ISO 400 (if with a hot shoe flash). There is good reason for that. :) Using flash instead. So you are using bounce, great. There is a little shadow under chins, I should have noticed, but 1) ISO 2500 really increases the ambient exposure, and 2) the lack of shadow gradients on the faces suggests considerable forward fill. Which does cause good forward catchlights in eyes, which is good (some forward fill is good), but I was looking at the highlights on the faces, which suggest a bit too much forward? Maybe just ISO, or maybe the bounce card, or maybe the back wall was reflecting a lot of it... Anyway, that becomes arbitrary, about lighting, subject to personal opinions. 1/60 is MINUMUM based on 1.5x cropped focal length at 44mm. Not optimum, but MINIMUM. The speedlight would help a lot, except ISO 2500 lets the ambient butt in. Also, Auto, A or P modes will always set 1/60 second MINIMUM with flash (or rather, it is the default Minimum in the E2 menu). Indoors with flash (dim where we need flash), automation will always set a wide open lens at 1/60 second. We can choose other settings. I believe you can set the D7200 Auto ISO minimum shutter speed to a value called Auto, which should use the 1/focal length rule as minimum (in auto modes). But indoors, that minimum will always be the value used for all pictures activating Auto ISO. Except the E2 menu minimum can always override if flash in A, P, or Auto. One time, try a similar test, camera M mode (indoors, where ambient exposure is far down, so does not matter), with ISO 400, f/5.6, and 1/200 second shutter speed. This does not affect the flash, the flash does what the TTL camera meters it needs to do at the settings discovered to be in effect. The speedlight stops the motion, the 1/200 second merely keeps the ambient out, which keeps the orange incandescent out (rear walls in room). 1/60 second in camera A mode would allow a bit of the orange in, giving it a bit more warm color, which some do like. But keeping ISO lower reduces risk of the metered ambient being able to blur motion that the speedlight would have stopped. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Learning
Photography Q&A
Need help with my images - Not coming out sharp!
Top