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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 223564" data-attributes="member: 12496">Mine are just some words, there are always different ideas.Sure, the bounce can be a lot closer (for more effective flash power, 25 feet back sounds excessive). They could be at the ends of group, but don't forget the front row faces need some frontal lighting component too.  So bounce should be a few feet in front of front row too, however the commander internal flash also contributes a bit (speaking of SB-700). The exposure of all these things needs to watched.Both focus (depth of field) and depth of lighting are a problem.  When the formula says depth of field is X to Y feet, there is no sharp cutoff.  It is gradual fall off, and a little more than X is not appreciably different than a little less than X.  It is just a numerical match with an arbitrary degree of out of focus, seen more and worse in big prints than in small enlargements.  Just saying, there is one point of focus, and sharpness trails off gradually in both directions. The DOF number is just some arbitrary limit, saying this much is enough.  A critical use might deem the standards are better if half as much.Offhand, 35mm and 25 feet seems really far back, more for the flash than the lens.   The lens does not care, so long as you can stand back that far.  But the little flash has to provide light at that distance.   Greater flash distance requires a wider aperture to compensate.  18mm zoom of course covers it from half the distance of 35 (and half the distance is two stops brighter).   Some middle compromise sounds good to me.     Arrive and setup a little early, so you can try (and see) a few things there, before the big shot.I think the SB-700 commander as also direct flash minimizes the most problems (line of sight, frontal fill of front row, etc).  Treat it as fill, if too much (to combine with the bounce), you can compensate it down in the commander menu.Don't forget, in the Commander Menu, you can compensate any of the three groups individually, to tweak them into even coverage, to look right in your tests.  And you can use camera Flash Compensation to adjust the total result up or down as needed (Commander often needs up to +1 EV FC anyway).   Otherwise, the commander will try to set all groups equal in the center, which might not be correct for a side light not even attempting to cover the center.And don't forget FV Lock, which requires a tiny bit of preliminary D90 setup (program function button).  Dont forget the Lock goes away (the L symbol) when the viewfinder times out and goes dark.If using TTL, I think you should set the remote SB-600 to beep their warnings, so you will be aware when you are asking for more power then they can deliver.  I rather expect you will start that way. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />  If unaware, the picture just does not get brighter.  The flash Ready light does blink,  but you cannot see it if the side with commander sensor is rotated towards camera. The viewfinder Ready symbol is not meaningful for Remote flashes.</blockquote>

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