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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 223124" data-attributes="member: 12496">Well, remember, it is not just a few random people who just happen to blink then.  You are flashing a light in their face that makes them blink then.  Results will be much greater than random.  <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />   Also the TTL remotes also do preflash then. Blinking is a big problem, it ruins photos.  Bounce and greater group distance might possibly be in your favor, but rest assured you will see blinking in a group of 40 people.   FV Lock is a good work around (it gets the blinking over with long before the shutter).  Manual flash mode instead of TTL is another work around.All the D90 or SB-700 can do is regular flashes.  The commands are the regular visible flash light, at low power.  Flash spectrum happens to be about 50/50 visible light and infrared.  The remote flashes filter out the visible light part and call it infrared, but the humans will not, they filter out the infrared and call it visible.  Commander is a low powered regular flash, just before the shutter opens, timed just right to capture blinking.  FV Lock does all that flashing part early, on command, and then you leisurely press the shutter button later.  Caution about FV Lock.  Watch the L symbol in viewfinder lower left.  It means a flash exposure is captured and will be used. If the viewfinder times out after a few seconds (goes dark), it loses that, and will start flashing commands at the next shutter (so FV Lock has to be done again then).The D90 commander would be aimed straight forward (better for line of sight, worse for blinking, but you have FV Lock).  The sensor on the remotes can be turned to point back directly at the camera commander.  That can be line of sight too.   The bounce remotes can aim at the commander too, but that is not exactly where their commands are coming from. The commander on camera could be aimed forward at them, but then its final flash may affect front row.    It is not impossible bounced commander might still work at that distance, but I would not bet on it.  Line of sight is a major issue for Commander. It is not like your living room, you will be at greater distances in a very large ballroom.Shutter speed is not a factor for flash.  Shutter speed does not affect flash exposure.  You must be using Slow Sync to meter the ambient. Ambient possibly could help, but it may be orange incandescent color.   Turn Slow Sync off and camera A or P Mode jumps to 1/60 second Minimum with flash, regardless of the ambient (slow enough if using flash).  Or set camera M mode, and you can set 1/200 second shutter sync speed to keep the orange ambient out.  Shutter speed does not affect the flash exposure.Ceiling height is a big factor too.  Comparing to a ten foot direct distance, bounce has to go that 10 feet plus the distance up and back down.  Lets say the camera mounted flash and all the heads are 5 feet high.  For a 14 feet ceiling, that is 14-5=9 feet up and again back down, plus ten feet across.  If it were near 45 degrees, which  45 degrees is 1.4x farther, or 14 feet instead of 10 feet. That 1.4 distance is one stop more power.This case is more like 60 degrees, 1.7x more distance.    Plus another stop loss at the reflection surface, assuming the ceiling can reflect 50% (a 50% gray card).  Very rough, but 2 or probably 3  stops more power needed (more than direct flash).But yes, it still has limits, but the bounce will more evenly light the depth than direct flash can (a rather large and desirable effect).Yes, good luck, I hope it goes well.  I think manual bounce will be the best picture if you can trigger it.   Direct flash will be the easiest to make go, but not the best picture.  If using TTL, don't forget that Flash Compensation is how we control automatic TTL, to get the result we want.</blockquote>

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