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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 221755" data-attributes="member: 12496">White ceiling is plus, 14 feet is maybe not for speedlight power.   But 14 feet would be good and even lighting, if you can get some power up there.   Not exact, but 14 feet probably requires two stops more power (4x power) than 10 foot ceilings.  My SB-800 (a bit stronger) can do ISO 400 f/5 on 12 foot ceilings.Incandescent lights will be orange.   One could plan for them by using CTO filters on the flash (to make it orange too) and then using Incandescent white balance to match it all. This reduces flash power a bit.  A slower shutter speed helps pick up the incandescent lights, if that's the plan. Otherwise, a slower shutter speed may just be a color cast in the flash picture..  if mild, maybe just a slight warming tone.This initial test seems a real good plan, about group feasibility.Only "needed" for the SB-600.  Already built in on SB-700, 800, 900, 910.If renting lights, at least rent stronger SB-800 or SB-910.  About 3/4 stop stronger than SB-700.   Both of those also have the SU-4 mode.     Manuals are online at <a href="http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948" target="_blank">http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948</a>Or much better, instead rent some strong studio mono-lights and light stands for the bounce.    Studio lights also have optical slaves built in.  You will likely need some extension AC cords.  The speedlights might be 60 to 75 watt seconds power.  Studio lights come in all sizes, but 1200 watt seconds would be about four f/stops stronger than the speedlights.  Bounce should work.  Respect them, they are no toy.    High, but several feet from ceiling to light a large area up there, including some of it a little in front of group (don't forget the front row).  Set them to full power, and then see what aperture you can use.I would say no diffuser.  It drastically dilutes the effective power and brightness.  The speedlights can be zoomed to 24 mm (FX, which covers 18mm DX).  And the DX lens is probably about 18mm?   Suggesting no need to angle them.   If you angle them, they should be divided in halves - that is, partial overlap is brightness intensity in center that is not on ends. If angled, you may even be able to zoom them slightly tighter for greater power, if you wanted to spend time checking the width coverage.  This is just talk, you will have to do what you see you have to do.Yes, use the card if bounced.   But one row casting shadow on rows behind is a problem for direct flash.  Bounce flash comes from the ceiling above, and shadows will be very much less serious.    Remember, bounce has to light the front row too.  Card can help with the first row.  Multiple bounce lights could be spread in the room to better illuminate the area, shadows are not the main concern then, so a different solution than direct flash above the camera.My big concern is that the first time has to work.  Some new untried gear and methods, and no opportunity for tests and trials.  If you could get the gear a few days early, then maybe could test a little in a large meeting room at work or church?  (probably 12 feet ceilings?)</blockquote>

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