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Need help shooting a large family group photo
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 221508" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>The SB-600 has no builtin means to trigger it remotely (excepting with a Commander, which it does have, but the D3100 does not). You can add an inexpensive optical slave accessory to its foot (see <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/slaves.html" target="_blank">Optical slave triggers for speedlights</a> ) if there is time. That would be like the SB-700 builtin SU-4 slave. Or you could add radio triggers, etc. Or a hot shoe extension cord like the SC-28 (these are really only good to maybe four feet).</p><p></p><p>I don't want to say too much about arranging the lights, because then it will be my fault. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> But large groups are difficult, so do think about it. Maybe think like this:</p><p></p><p>Say you have a front row of ten people, numbered 1 to 10.</p><p></p><p>I think you are proposing lights in front of #3 and #8, aimed more or less straight back. That does not seem unreasonable for the front row. But you have 60 people, so you have five more rows of ten (technically, you would have rows of arcs of semicircles, helps in a few ways). There is going to be all kinds of shadows (on faces from the row in front), all the way back, awesome shadows, none of which you can see until you take the picture. The camera will be in the center, its wide view sweeping across the group so to speak. What it sees, and what the lights light, are very different things, with respect to those shadows. You will have lots of dark faces (the camera sees a different view than the lights saw). Lights should be high, and camera should be high, and its good if the rear rows were high too.</p><p></p><p>I'm suggesting lights high above the camera, both more or less between #5 and #6, and aimed out across the group. The center overlap is one spot to watch and adjust. The lens will see those same angles from the same point, so what the lens sees, the lights light. This is inferior lighting (greater distance) out towards the edges, so it works better if the lights are back a bit (but the camera has to be back a bit too, to cover the wide group). There are of course better ways to light an area, but no better way to light what the lens sees. You want the lens to NOT see shadows. You want to light what the lens sees.</p><p></p><p>Your large group makes it be very difficult, by definition.</p><p></p><p>Study up a bit on the web. Here is one good source: <a href="http://super.nova.org/DPR/Groups/" target="_blank">http://super.nova.org/DPR/Groups/</a></p><p></p><p>Or here: <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=lighting+large+group" target="_blank">lighting large group - Google Search</a></p><p></p><p>It is far from an easy problem. A few orders of magnitude different than a group of five. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 221508, member: 12496"] The SB-600 has no builtin means to trigger it remotely (excepting with a Commander, which it does have, but the D3100 does not). You can add an inexpensive optical slave accessory to its foot (see [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/slaves.html"]Optical slave triggers for speedlights[/URL] ) if there is time. That would be like the SB-700 builtin SU-4 slave. Or you could add radio triggers, etc. Or a hot shoe extension cord like the SC-28 (these are really only good to maybe four feet). I don't want to say too much about arranging the lights, because then it will be my fault. :) But large groups are difficult, so do think about it. Maybe think like this: Say you have a front row of ten people, numbered 1 to 10. I think you are proposing lights in front of #3 and #8, aimed more or less straight back. That does not seem unreasonable for the front row. But you have 60 people, so you have five more rows of ten (technically, you would have rows of arcs of semicircles, helps in a few ways). There is going to be all kinds of shadows (on faces from the row in front), all the way back, awesome shadows, none of which you can see until you take the picture. The camera will be in the center, its wide view sweeping across the group so to speak. What it sees, and what the lights light, are very different things, with respect to those shadows. You will have lots of dark faces (the camera sees a different view than the lights saw). Lights should be high, and camera should be high, and its good if the rear rows were high too. I'm suggesting lights high above the camera, both more or less between #5 and #6, and aimed out across the group. The center overlap is one spot to watch and adjust. The lens will see those same angles from the same point, so what the lens sees, the lights light. This is inferior lighting (greater distance) out towards the edges, so it works better if the lights are back a bit (but the camera has to be back a bit too, to cover the wide group). There are of course better ways to light an area, but no better way to light what the lens sees. You want the lens to NOT see shadows. You want to light what the lens sees. Your large group makes it be very difficult, by definition. Study up a bit on the web. Here is one good source: [URL]http://super.nova.org/DPR/Groups/[/URL] Or here: [URL="http://www.google.com/search?q=lighting+large+group"]lighting large group - Google Search[/URL] It is far from an easy problem. A few orders of magnitude different than a group of five. :) [/QUOTE]
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