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Need help shooting a large family group photo
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 221450" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>So the group will consist of multiple rows of people - several rows.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Speedlights won't bounce and do f/11. Bounce will be at lower level. Depends on ceiling, but hope for f/5 ISO 400; Practice this a bit (in place) before the event (practice all of it in advance - Just a couple of friends sitting in can still give a good idea.)</p><p></p><p>Shutter speed does not affect flash (flash just happens while shutter is open). A slow shutter (like 1/60 second) will try to emphasize any continuous ambient light present, and a fast shutter (1/200 second) will keep out the continuous ambient light. Flash exposure is not affected.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>My main point is I hope you mean the lights near the camera, aimed 45 degrees outward.</p><p></p><p>If you mean towards the group edges, aimed 45 degrees inward. the light will be even and nice on the first row, but you will make terrible shadows of one row on the next. You cannot see and predict those shadows in advance, but shadow of one head will be on the head in the row behind, etc. It can be awful. You try to elevate each rear row, but this lighting makes it hard. It is good for one single row however.</p><p></p><p>If lights are in the center by camera, angled outward, then they more or less light the same thing that the lens sees. Peoples heads who can see the camera can also see the lights, the light will illuminate their faces (far less shadows). </p><p></p><p>Elevating the camera will help a lot. Stand on a step ladder with it, aimed down into the group. This effectively "elevates" the rear row, and the angle helps depth of field too.</p><p></p><p>Make a rough sketch on paper if necessary to get it (re: shadows)... Rows of heads, and the camera position, and the lights position. Then ask, where are the shadows of one row on the next? What does the camera angle see?</p><p></p><p></p><p>Bounce is good if you can pull it off (ceiling height, etc). Forget the domes. You need all the light you can get. The bounce card can help, esp with flashes in center near camera.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Forget the domes. No, without Commander, it can only be manual flash mode. One TTL flash requires the hot shoe, and multiple TTL flash requires the Commander. Period.</p><p></p><p>Manual flash mode. Trigger the SB-600 however you can (it has no slave, so it can be on hot shoe with head angled some to its side, or on hot shoe extension cord for example). The SB-700 has its SU-4 optical slave mode, which will trigger (manual flash) from the SB-600 flash. To be very safe, rotate head on body so SB-700 sensor (on side with battery door) is aimed at triggering SB-600.</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps. Practice it just a bit first. The actual event should NOT be the first time you see all of this.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 221450, member: 12496"] So the group will consist of multiple rows of people - several rows. Speedlights won't bounce and do f/11. Bounce will be at lower level. Depends on ceiling, but hope for f/5 ISO 400; Practice this a bit (in place) before the event (practice all of it in advance - Just a couple of friends sitting in can still give a good idea.) Shutter speed does not affect flash (flash just happens while shutter is open). A slow shutter (like 1/60 second) will try to emphasize any continuous ambient light present, and a fast shutter (1/200 second) will keep out the continuous ambient light. Flash exposure is not affected. My main point is I hope you mean the lights near the camera, aimed 45 degrees outward. If you mean towards the group edges, aimed 45 degrees inward. the light will be even and nice on the first row, but you will make terrible shadows of one row on the next. You cannot see and predict those shadows in advance, but shadow of one head will be on the head in the row behind, etc. It can be awful. You try to elevate each rear row, but this lighting makes it hard. It is good for one single row however. If lights are in the center by camera, angled outward, then they more or less light the same thing that the lens sees. Peoples heads who can see the camera can also see the lights, the light will illuminate their faces (far less shadows). Elevating the camera will help a lot. Stand on a step ladder with it, aimed down into the group. This effectively "elevates" the rear row, and the angle helps depth of field too. Make a rough sketch on paper if necessary to get it (re: shadows)... Rows of heads, and the camera position, and the lights position. Then ask, where are the shadows of one row on the next? What does the camera angle see? Bounce is good if you can pull it off (ceiling height, etc). Forget the domes. You need all the light you can get. The bounce card can help, esp with flashes in center near camera. Forget the domes. No, without Commander, it can only be manual flash mode. One TTL flash requires the hot shoe, and multiple TTL flash requires the Commander. Period. Manual flash mode. Trigger the SB-600 however you can (it has no slave, so it can be on hot shoe with head angled some to its side, or on hot shoe extension cord for example). The SB-700 has its SU-4 optical slave mode, which will trigger (manual flash) from the SB-600 flash. To be very safe, rotate head on body so SB-700 sensor (on side with battery door) is aimed at triggering SB-600. Hope that helps. Practice it just a bit first. The actual event should NOT be the first time you see all of this. [/QUOTE]
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