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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D7100
Need help choosing a lens for d7100, thanks:).
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<blockquote data-quote="Horoscope Fish" data-source="post: 188454" data-attributes="member: 13090"><p>I still think the 18-105 is your best bet. From what I can tell it's answers your needs:</p><p></p><p></p><p>The 18-105mm will do this.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>White balance will fix this. No lens can compensate for florescent lighting.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>You need something wider than 50mm. Like, say for instance 18mm, or 35mm... Like the 18-105mm will give you.</p><p></p><p></p><p> </p><p>The 18-105mm will do this.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>If flash is out of the question then you're going to have to either increase your ISO or use a slower shutter speed possibly with a tripod or monopod if you have to really drop the shutter speed. Remember, handheld shots should be taken at a shutter speed that is twice your focal length, so if you're shooting a 55mm lens your shutter speed shouldn't drop below about 1/125.</p><p></p><p>So yes, while faster glass is nice, those really wide apertures can have razor thin depth of field when you increase focal length; this is why shooting at f2.8 for things like portraits and group shots is not a good idea and you compensate by using flash or a higher ISO or a lower shutter speed and a tripod or monopod. As has already been said, no one single lens can do it all.</p><p></p><p>If you go with too large an aperture with too much focal length you're going to have problems with depth of field; you mentioned having that issue in your first post and how focal length affects depth of field doesn't seem to come up much in conversation around here but it something you need to be aware of. </p><p></p><p>If you want really deep depth of field AND a wide aperture so you can keep your shutter speed up and/or your ISO down, you're going to need a wide angle. But of course a wide angle is going to make your subject look further away in the frame at the same distance so you may need to compensate by moving in closer or, as we say, "zooming with your feet".</p><p></p><p>Here's an example of what I'm talking about. I have a Tokina 11-16mm f 2.8 wide-angle so I'm going to use that as an example. For now, we will just assume our subject is 10 feet away:</p><p></p><p>Using a <strong>16mm</strong> focal length at f 2.8, depth of field is almost 4 *feet* in front of the subject and 20 *feet* behind the subject. </p><p>Using a <strong>55mm</strong> focal length at f 2.8, depth of filed is about six *inches* in front of the subject and about six *inches* behind the subject.</p><p></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #FFFFFF">......</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Horoscope Fish, post: 188454, member: 13090"] I still think the 18-105 is your best bet. From what I can tell it's answers your needs: The 18-105mm will do this. White balance will fix this. No lens can compensate for florescent lighting. You need something wider than 50mm. Like, say for instance 18mm, or 35mm... Like the 18-105mm will give you. The 18-105mm will do this. If flash is out of the question then you're going to have to either increase your ISO or use a slower shutter speed possibly with a tripod or monopod if you have to really drop the shutter speed. Remember, handheld shots should be taken at a shutter speed that is twice your focal length, so if you're shooting a 55mm lens your shutter speed shouldn't drop below about 1/125. So yes, while faster glass is nice, those really wide apertures can have razor thin depth of field when you increase focal length; this is why shooting at f2.8 for things like portraits and group shots is not a good idea and you compensate by using flash or a higher ISO or a lower shutter speed and a tripod or monopod. As has already been said, no one single lens can do it all. If you go with too large an aperture with too much focal length you're going to have problems with depth of field; you mentioned having that issue in your first post and how focal length affects depth of field doesn't seem to come up much in conversation around here but it something you need to be aware of. If you want really deep depth of field AND a wide aperture so you can keep your shutter speed up and/or your ISO down, you're going to need a wide angle. But of course a wide angle is going to make your subject look further away in the frame at the same distance so you may need to compensate by moving in closer or, as we say, "zooming with your feet". Here's an example of what I'm talking about. I have a Tokina 11-16mm f 2.8 wide-angle so I'm going to use that as an example. For now, we will just assume our subject is 10 feet away: Using a [B]16mm[/B] focal length at f 2.8, depth of field is almost 4 *feet* in front of the subject and 20 *feet* behind the subject. Using a [B]55mm[/B] focal length at f 2.8, depth of filed is about six *inches* in front of the subject and about six *inches* behind the subject. [COLOR="#FFFFFF"]......[/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D7100
Need help choosing a lens for d7100, thanks:).
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