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General Photography
Low Light & Night
my first time lapse while trying to get persids meteor shower
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<blockquote data-quote="sOnIc" data-source="post: 191538" data-attributes="member: 15861"><p>Hi there .. meteors are a lottery! I've tried a fair few times with no real success, but this year I got a couple: <a href="http://www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php" target="_blank">www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php</a> </p><p></p><p>I like your composition/foreground in your wide-field shots, though you are facing south away from the shower's radiant, I was directly facing Perseus to the north. There is a compromise because the meteors are shorter when looking directly at the radiant but you have more chance of catching one; whereas looking away from Perseus will get much longer meteors but much rarer (I too was using the kit lens at 18mm).</p><p></p><p>Firstly I'd say your focus looks off, if your eye-sight is good then all you need to do is zoom in on one of the brightest stars you can see (I used Cappella) and manually focus on that, then pull back and compose your shot. (Prime Lenses will require a different approach.)</p><p></p><p>Then the orange glow of streetlights is always there if you are anywhere near civilization, it's the thorn in the side of night sky photography, ideally you want to drive as far away from the city lights as you can. The most important thing is that in post-processing try your best to preserve the colour difference between the stars; some are very blue; and some are very orange - if you use colour correction to remove the orange light pollution then you'll end up affecting the colour of the red giant stars as well.</p><p></p><p>Stacking is an option for star trails, but our camera's are very happy up to 30 minutes (and beyond I hope? I've got <a href="http://nikonites.com/d3200/16191-bulb-mode-30-min-limit-indefinite.html#axzz2dGgqdjjb" target="_blank">a thread</a> asking for confirmation for my D3200) and if you do it right you'll get a great shot. You will need to turn the onboard noise reduction off; and do dark frame reduction after - though actually my camera at ISO800 performed brilliantly for the short meteor shots. I was shooting aprox 7-10secs F3.5 ISO800.</p><p></p><p>One other thing, did you see 'that' meteor with your own eyes? If you spend time watching the night sky then you'll see all sorts of moving objects - in my Persied session I caught several iridium flare's which are satellites catching the sun; and also when doing long trails its common to get aircraft going through your shot which is a real pain. I'm not sure myself if your curved streak is, or is not, a meteor.. it could be a satellite going right-left, meteors should be straight and do not bend/curve unless done with a fish-eye lens... not sure .. </p><p></p><p>Anyway, there are other meteor showers in the year; and potentially a bright comet later this year .. best of luck : )<a href="http://www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php" target="_blank"></a></p><p><a href="http://www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php" target="_blank"></a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sOnIc, post: 191538, member: 15861"] Hi there .. meteors are a lottery! I've tried a fair few times with no real success, but this year I got a couple: [URL="http://www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php"]www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php[/URL] I like your composition/foreground in your wide-field shots, though you are facing south away from the shower's radiant, I was directly facing Perseus to the north. There is a compromise because the meteors are shorter when looking directly at the radiant but you have more chance of catching one; whereas looking away from Perseus will get much longer meteors but much rarer (I too was using the kit lens at 18mm). Firstly I'd say your focus looks off, if your eye-sight is good then all you need to do is zoom in on one of the brightest stars you can see (I used Cappella) and manually focus on that, then pull back and compose your shot. (Prime Lenses will require a different approach.) Then the orange glow of streetlights is always there if you are anywhere near civilization, it's the thorn in the side of night sky photography, ideally you want to drive as far away from the city lights as you can. The most important thing is that in post-processing try your best to preserve the colour difference between the stars; some are very blue; and some are very orange - if you use colour correction to remove the orange light pollution then you'll end up affecting the colour of the red giant stars as well. Stacking is an option for star trails, but our camera's are very happy up to 30 minutes (and beyond I hope? I've got [URL="http://nikonites.com/d3200/16191-bulb-mode-30-min-limit-indefinite.html#axzz2dGgqdjjb"]a thread[/URL] asking for confirmation for my D3200) and if you do it right you'll get a great shot. You will need to turn the onboard noise reduction off; and do dark frame reduction after - though actually my camera at ISO800 performed brilliantly for the short meteor shots. I was shooting aprox 7-10secs F3.5 ISO800. One other thing, did you see 'that' meteor with your own eyes? If you spend time watching the night sky then you'll see all sorts of moving objects - in my Persied session I caught several iridium flare's which are satellites catching the sun; and also when doing long trails its common to get aircraft going through your shot which is a real pain. I'm not sure myself if your curved streak is, or is not, a meteor.. it could be a satellite going right-left, meteors should be straight and do not bend/curve unless done with a fish-eye lens... not sure .. Anyway, there are other meteor showers in the year; and potentially a bright comet later this year .. best of luck : )[URL="http://www.flitemedia.com/photography/night-sky.php"] [/URL] [/QUOTE]
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my first time lapse while trying to get persids meteor shower
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