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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D850
"My" D850 is in (should I decide to accept)
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 644880" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>"Focusing" on good lighting has two great benefits, the rewards are the greatest of any change in a system, and are the cheapest. Once you get to using the one light and Rapidbox, you will see dramatic improvement in images over catch shots and the nuances of shadow and light telling a story so well that you will learn how to deal with any light, augmented or not, in more deliberate ways. You are soon going to want more lights, 2-3 at least in the kit but they can be simple manual only flash for $50-up to $100 for fancy wireless CLS/iTTL/HSS with plenty of power for portraiture, fashion, fine art, product, and still life work. A few $25 light stands, a grid, snoot, maybe some gels, and modifiers you can make yourself and you can see just how good your camera is. Everyone seems to be mostly concerned with high iso and very fast lenses but in the studio set up, even your kit lenses can out performs almost any high end lens wide open. Give them enough good light and shadows and you will be amazed how much better your shots will like and learn very quickly how to use whatever light is available away from the studio. Soon you will look a scene and think about the light and how to best use it just intuitively after seeing the dramatic effects of your repeatable consistent experiments at home with your lighting setup. It is such a good learning tool, lighting should be the first thing a beginner should learn, and not wait until later after they learned the hard way about the fickle natural light that is never the same twice. </p><p>Given the foregoing, If you really want to spend a little money and get the most out of your investment, I suggest planning on getting at least 2 more speedlights, (not expensive SB5000 or 910, for 1/6th you can get the same specs in some of the very reliable units from companies like Yongnuo ) and add their high performance low cost flash controllers, some light stands, a strip box or octobox, a few mounting adaptors, and buy or make some modifiers and have a very effective setup for $300. You could get used older manual flashes instead, for $25 or less because you do not need TTL in the studio, in fact it works against you if you use TTL. The reason I suggested new late models like the Yongnuo 685 or 568 is their syncing up to 1/8000 sec which allows some pretty cool options like making the background behind your subject disappear in blackness, even in full room light, in case you do not want to worry about backgrounds or prepared shooting spaces with clear backgrounds.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 644880, member: 43545"] "Focusing" on good lighting has two great benefits, the rewards are the greatest of any change in a system, and are the cheapest. Once you get to using the one light and Rapidbox, you will see dramatic improvement in images over catch shots and the nuances of shadow and light telling a story so well that you will learn how to deal with any light, augmented or not, in more deliberate ways. You are soon going to want more lights, 2-3 at least in the kit but they can be simple manual only flash for $50-up to $100 for fancy wireless CLS/iTTL/HSS with plenty of power for portraiture, fashion, fine art, product, and still life work. A few $25 light stands, a grid, snoot, maybe some gels, and modifiers you can make yourself and you can see just how good your camera is. Everyone seems to be mostly concerned with high iso and very fast lenses but in the studio set up, even your kit lenses can out performs almost any high end lens wide open. Give them enough good light and shadows and you will be amazed how much better your shots will like and learn very quickly how to use whatever light is available away from the studio. Soon you will look a scene and think about the light and how to best use it just intuitively after seeing the dramatic effects of your repeatable consistent experiments at home with your lighting setup. It is such a good learning tool, lighting should be the first thing a beginner should learn, and not wait until later after they learned the hard way about the fickle natural light that is never the same twice. Given the foregoing, If you really want to spend a little money and get the most out of your investment, I suggest planning on getting at least 2 more speedlights, (not expensive SB5000 or 910, for 1/6th you can get the same specs in some of the very reliable units from companies like Yongnuo ) and add their high performance low cost flash controllers, some light stands, a strip box or octobox, a few mounting adaptors, and buy or make some modifiers and have a very effective setup for $300. You could get used older manual flashes instead, for $25 or less because you do not need TTL in the studio, in fact it works against you if you use TTL. The reason I suggested new late models like the Yongnuo 685 or 568 is their syncing up to 1/8000 sec which allows some pretty cool options like making the background behind your subject disappear in blackness, even in full room light, in case you do not want to worry about backgrounds or prepared shooting spaces with clear backgrounds. [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D850
"My" D850 is in (should I decide to accept)
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