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Moon pictures - what went wrong?
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 814392" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>OK, Imgur is filtering out your exif information, so I am unable to read the actual settings. Not that I don't want to believe your settings, but I wonder if you have Auto-ISO activated and forgot to turn it off?</p><p></p><p>In S mode you can change ISO and shutter speed, camera selects the f-stop. That is an auto-exposure mode and is not recommended for this work.</p><p></p><p>I recommend you turn off Auto-ISO and set to 200. Set to M (manual) exposure mode. Set the f-stop with the front command wheel to f/8 or f/9. The reason for f/8 is that is where most lenses have their best performance as far as being sharp and optical artifacts. Leave those 2 options alone at that point. Set your exposure compensation back to 0, shutter speed around 1/800 second for a full moon. Adjust the speed faster if over-exposed like that first photo. You have a small bit of room to slow the shutter speed if under-exposed, but don't drop below 1/500. The moon moves fast across the sky, motion blurring comes into play. Slightly under-exposed is far more preferable to over-exposed and is easy to fix in post if you were to shoot Raw images instead of JPG.</p><p></p><p>We should talk technique. The photo should be taken from a very sturdy tripod. Tripod shots should be taken either by using a 3 second self-timer delay or a remote shutter release button. Any time you push your finger down on the shutter release shakes the camera. Using the 3-second timer gives time for the shake to reduce, best way is to use a remote shutter release. I like to use a wired remote that plugs into the camera. The aftermarket ones are petty inexpensive, but the infrared wireless remotes are also inexpensive. Just a bit limiting. No delay is needed when using a remote release. Focus the lens manually. Point at a star you can see clearly (the North Star is a good choice) and adjust focus until the star is a small on your Live-View screen as possible. It will be highly difficult to get a focus in the viewfinder. Live-View is the way to go if your DSLR does it.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, don't expect Ferrari performance from a Honda. Your 18-200mm lens is going to be softer than average. At the extremes of 18mm and 200mm it will be even more so. If I put my 70-200mm f/2.8 lens on your camera, there will be a difference. Fogging also happens on lenses at night in the cold, especially shortly after taking a warm lens out of a home on a cold night.</p><p></p><p>I have collected a lot of gear for astrophotography, and I spent years getting it. I use a very heavy tripod now, I have a star-tracking telescope mount to attach my camera to so I can go to slow exposures without blurring. I can shoot to 600mm. I have a dew-heater that wraps around the lens. But I do still have to do all those tips I give at the beginning.</p><p></p><p>EDIT: I changed the recommended ISO to 200 after looking up the specs of the D5000. ISO 100 is below the base ISO value and is artificially generated. ISO 200 is minimum native ISO for the D5000.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 814392, member: 48483"] OK, Imgur is filtering out your exif information, so I am unable to read the actual settings. Not that I don't want to believe your settings, but I wonder if you have Auto-ISO activated and forgot to turn it off? In S mode you can change ISO and shutter speed, camera selects the f-stop. That is an auto-exposure mode and is not recommended for this work. I recommend you turn off Auto-ISO and set to 200. Set to M (manual) exposure mode. Set the f-stop with the front command wheel to f/8 or f/9. The reason for f/8 is that is where most lenses have their best performance as far as being sharp and optical artifacts. Leave those 2 options alone at that point. Set your exposure compensation back to 0, shutter speed around 1/800 second for a full moon. Adjust the speed faster if over-exposed like that first photo. You have a small bit of room to slow the shutter speed if under-exposed, but don't drop below 1/500. The moon moves fast across the sky, motion blurring comes into play. Slightly under-exposed is far more preferable to over-exposed and is easy to fix in post if you were to shoot Raw images instead of JPG. We should talk technique. The photo should be taken from a very sturdy tripod. Tripod shots should be taken either by using a 3 second self-timer delay or a remote shutter release button. Any time you push your finger down on the shutter release shakes the camera. Using the 3-second timer gives time for the shake to reduce, best way is to use a remote shutter release. I like to use a wired remote that plugs into the camera. The aftermarket ones are petty inexpensive, but the infrared wireless remotes are also inexpensive. Just a bit limiting. No delay is needed when using a remote release. Focus the lens manually. Point at a star you can see clearly (the North Star is a good choice) and adjust focus until the star is a small on your Live-View screen as possible. It will be highly difficult to get a focus in the viewfinder. Live-View is the way to go if your DSLR does it. Lastly, don't expect Ferrari performance from a Honda. Your 18-200mm lens is going to be softer than average. At the extremes of 18mm and 200mm it will be even more so. If I put my 70-200mm f/2.8 lens on your camera, there will be a difference. Fogging also happens on lenses at night in the cold, especially shortly after taking a warm lens out of a home on a cold night. I have collected a lot of gear for astrophotography, and I spent years getting it. I use a very heavy tripod now, I have a star-tracking telescope mount to attach my camera to so I can go to slow exposures without blurring. I can shoot to 600mm. I have a dew-heater that wraps around the lens. But I do still have to do all those tips I give at the beginning. EDIT: I changed the recommended ISO to 200 after looking up the specs of the D5000. ISO 100 is below the base ISO value and is artificially generated. ISO 200 is minimum native ISO for the D5000. [/QUOTE]
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