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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 735528" data-attributes="member: 9240">If I have a moving subject and a bird in particular if I'm at 1/800 or 1/1000 I can guarantee you that 9 of 10 images will be crap, particularly if it's a bird. I set a max ISO of 4000 and use a shutter speed that will stop the motion I need stopped. Sometimes that makes for an insufficiently bright image and requires a lot of work in post, but I've gotten used to it. I've found that raising ISO or just brightening the image in camera raw provides about the same level of noise. There's an example of an image I shot at ISO 4000 and 1/1000s of a fox here: <a href="https://nikonites.com/wild-life/44272-red-fox-no-not-fred-sanford.html#post729553" target="_blank">https://nikonites.com/wild-life/44272-red-fox-no-not-fred-sanford.html#post729553</a>&nbsp; I use Topaz Denoise AI and it's as critical a piece of software to my wildlife shooting as anything else. I denoise first (before any light adjustments) and then shoot it through camera raw.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 735528, member: 9240"] If I have a moving subject and a bird in particular if I'm at 1/800 or 1/1000 I can guarantee you that 9 of 10 images will be crap, particularly if it's a bird. I set a max ISO of 4000 and use a shutter speed that will stop the motion I need stopped. Sometimes that makes for an insufficiently bright image and requires a lot of work in post, but I've gotten used to it. I've found that raising ISO or just brightening the image in camera raw provides about the same level of noise. There's an example of an image I shot at ISO 4000 and 1/1000s of a fox here: [url]https://nikonites.com/wild-life/44272-red-fox-no-not-fred-sanford.html#post729553[/url] I use Topaz Denoise AI and it's as critical a piece of software to my wildlife shooting as anything else. I denoise first (before any light adjustments) and then shoot it through camera raw. [/QUOTE]

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