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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 468113" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Yongnuo YN565EX ($84 Amazon) works fine as a Remote with the Commander, with another Nikon flash. Seems the cheapest way to get there, and a good way. I assume the YN568 will do as well.</p><p></p><p>TTL might be crap with the 622 (dunno, but so it is said), but TTL does very well with the Nikon Commander. Nothing extra is needed (a couple of light stands and umbrellas maybe).</p><p></p><p>The Commander will need about +1 EV flash compensation. That is routine, you just do it, start there. It's TTL BL which needs it, and I think it's intentional with Commander, since it meters the remote flashes individually, and does not see them combined. If it did not, and they if had major overlap (more than main and fill), then overexposure would result. This intention guards against that overexposure.</p><p></p><p>With two TTL flashes and commander, you can just throw a couple of lights out there, but best results will be one high and wide (like portraits), and one much more frontal and turned down about -1 EV or maybe even -2 EV (lighting ratio). This lighting ratio makes a dramatic difference. The commander will do that for you. The absolute least you can do is to experiment and try the ratio.</p><p></p><p>Or since +1 EV will be necessary anyway, just set the high and wide one at +1 EV, and the frontal fill at 0 EV and camera FC at 0 EV. Same thing. But of course, adjust as seen necessary. It probably won't be necessary.</p><p></p><p>The Yongnuo can be the main light, it is noticeably stronger than the SB-700. However, if the fill light is back by the camera (and it pretty much has to be to see around its umbrella), then it should be the strong one.</p><p></p><p>I would point you to <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html" target="_blank">Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 468113, member: 12496"] Yongnuo YN565EX ($84 Amazon) works fine as a Remote with the Commander, with another Nikon flash. Seems the cheapest way to get there, and a good way. I assume the YN568 will do as well. TTL might be crap with the 622 (dunno, but so it is said), but TTL does very well with the Nikon Commander. Nothing extra is needed (a couple of light stands and umbrellas maybe). The Commander will need about +1 EV flash compensation. That is routine, you just do it, start there. It's TTL BL which needs it, and I think it's intentional with Commander, since it meters the remote flashes individually, and does not see them combined. If it did not, and they if had major overlap (more than main and fill), then overexposure would result. This intention guards against that overexposure. With two TTL flashes and commander, you can just throw a couple of lights out there, but best results will be one high and wide (like portraits), and one much more frontal and turned down about -1 EV or maybe even -2 EV (lighting ratio). This lighting ratio makes a dramatic difference. The commander will do that for you. The absolute least you can do is to experiment and try the ratio. Or since +1 EV will be necessary anyway, just set the high and wide one at +1 EV, and the frontal fill at 0 EV and camera FC at 0 EV. Same thing. But of course, adjust as seen necessary. It probably won't be necessary. The Yongnuo can be the main light, it is noticeably stronger than the SB-700. However, if the fill light is back by the camera (and it pretty much has to be to see around its umbrella), then it should be the strong one. I would point you to [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html"]Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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