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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 358868" data-attributes="member: 16090">When you do manual focusing in Live View, you are actually seeing what the sensor sees. So you can get the focus as sharp as the lense focus ring will allow. On many lenses (to make AF fast) the focus throw is very short, so it is very difficult to get the focus spot on. If you use older manual focus lenses, which have a large throw, you will get razor sharp focus. My 105mm AIS macro has about 330 degrees of throw, so you can focus easily, where as the 35mmG has a short throw and focusing manually is a pain.One thing that I noticed is that the maximum zoom in live view; at least on the D3300; has a lot of artifacts, there fore I use last but one step for critical focusing.One remedy is to get a third party screen with coarse grain and a microprism in the centre, as in good old MF film days. Then you can use the View Finder for critical focusing.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="aroy, post: 358868, member: 16090"] When you do manual focusing in Live View, you are actually seeing what the sensor sees. So you can get the focus as sharp as the lense focus ring will allow. On many lenses (to make AF fast) the focus throw is very short, so it is very difficult to get the focus spot on. If you use older manual focus lenses, which have a large throw, you will get razor sharp focus. My 105mm AIS macro has about 330 degrees of throw, so you can focus easily, where as the 35mmG has a short throw and focusing manually is a pain. One thing that I noticed is that the maximum zoom in live view; at least on the D3300; has a lot of artifacts, there fore I use last but one step for critical focusing. One remedy is to get a third party screen with coarse grain and a microprism in the centre, as in good old MF film days. Then you can use the View Finder for critical focusing. [/QUOTE]

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