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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 331452" data-attributes="member: 9240">Answering your question first, you can set the handshake between LR and PS to either be TIFF or PSD files.&nbsp; I prefer the latter.&nbsp; No real reason, I just do.&nbsp; No significant difference in size.As for the blur tool, let's just say that I've spent many long hours with it, and it's a cruel mistress when you try to use it to really replicate bokeh as it would exist with a faster lens.&nbsp; Had my subjects been closer and had more sharply defined lines against a less busy background I could have spend significant time trying to eliminate the ghosting that comes with a slightly off blur.&nbsp; So while hark is right to some degree, my suggestion is to learn how to take advantage of the bokeh you get (or don't) and use that wisely.&nbsp; I rarely use it as a substitute for a large aperture, if that's what I want.&nbsp; 9 times out of 10 I will pull it out when I used something else that added more clarity to what's in the OOF regions and want to set it back to how it was.&nbsp; Just thought I should say that before a bunch of you get frustrated with brush edges, sizes and opacity levels and waste a couple hours creating &quot;razor thin DoF at f/5.6&quot;. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink&nbsp; &nbsp; ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 331452, member: 9240"] Answering your question first, you can set the handshake between LR and PS to either be TIFF or PSD files. I prefer the latter. No real reason, I just do. No significant difference in size. As for the blur tool, let's just say that I've spent many long hours with it, and it's a cruel mistress when you try to use it to [I]really[/I] replicate bokeh as it would exist with a faster lens. Had my subjects been closer and had more sharply defined lines against a less busy background I could have spend significant time trying to eliminate the ghosting that comes with a slightly off blur. So while hark is right to some degree, my suggestion is to learn how to take advantage of the bokeh you get (or don't) and use that wisely. I rarely use it as a substitute for a large aperture, if that's what I want. 9 times out of 10 I will pull it out when I used something else that added more clarity to what's in the OOF regions and want to set it back to how it was. Just thought I should say that before a bunch of you get frustrated with brush edges, sizes and opacity levels and waste a couple hours creating "razor thin DoF at f/5.6". ;) [/QUOTE]

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