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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 552057" data-attributes="member: 12496">Just using it sounds like the test to me.&nbsp; There is not much mechanical aspect, so long as the buttons work and the battery door latches.&nbsp; I suspect it either works, or it doesn't.&nbsp; And Nikon flashes typically work for a long time.The bigger issue is surely just learning to use flash.&nbsp;&nbsp; Point and shoot flash is not always point and shoot.&nbsp; The camera metering controls the flash, and the metering can be a little iffy, esp for flash.&nbsp; Learning to deal with that is the trick.&nbsp; Just saying, don't be too quick to blame the flash, instead it is almost always about us learning to use the flash.&nbsp; Some of your best work indoors will be using bounce flash, aiming the flash head up at a normal height white ceiling.&nbsp; Start there at ISO 400 and f/5 (but always do what you see you need to do).For automatic TTL flash mode, the way we can control (modify when needed) what the metering does is to use Flash Compensation.&nbsp; If picture is a bit bright or dark, just apply a bit of -EV or +EV Flash Compensation, as seen needed, which gives a good result.&nbsp; This is NOT a one time adjustment, it is NOT at all about calibrating the flash, but instead is compensating for the one specific scene currently in front of the camera (and the way it was metered by the camera).&nbsp; It is normal that we have to help the metering now and then.&nbsp; However, for bounce flash, you may find that a little usual +EV compensation is a good common starting point. Whereas direct flash has more tendency to overexpose a little.&nbsp; Just do what you see you need to do in the specific situation.&nbsp; But flash will be less fully automatic than you may be used to in outdoor sunlight.For Manual flash mode, instead of compensation, we just apply a bit more or less manual flash power level, to make the picture look like we want it to look.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 552057, member: 12496"] Just using it sounds like the test to me. There is not much mechanical aspect, so long as the buttons work and the battery door latches. I suspect it either works, or it doesn't. And Nikon flashes typically work for a long time. The bigger issue is surely just learning to use flash. Point and shoot flash is not always point and shoot. The camera metering controls the flash, and the metering can be a little iffy, esp for flash. Learning to deal with that is the trick. Just saying, don't be too quick to blame the flash, instead it is almost always about us learning to use the flash. Some of your best work indoors will be using bounce flash, aiming the flash head up at a normal height white ceiling. Start there at ISO 400 and f/5 (but always do what you see you need to do). For automatic TTL flash mode, the way we can control (modify when needed) what the metering does is to use Flash Compensation. If picture is a bit bright or dark, just apply a bit of -EV or +EV Flash Compensation, as seen needed, which gives a good result. This is NOT a one time adjustment, it is NOT at all about calibrating the flash, but instead is compensating for the one specific scene currently in front of the camera (and the way it was metered by the camera). It is normal that we have to help the metering now and then. However, for bounce flash, you may find that a little usual +EV compensation is a good common starting point. Whereas direct flash has more tendency to overexpose a little. Just do what you see you need to do in the specific situation. But flash will be less fully automatic than you may be used to in outdoor sunlight. For Manual flash mode, instead of compensation, we just apply a bit more or less manual flash power level, to make the picture look like we want it to look. [/QUOTE]

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