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<blockquote data-quote="Joseph Bautsch" data-source="post: 19293" data-attributes="member: 654"><p>Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. I covered a lot of territory in my last post so it may have been confusing. Your question was concerning exposure and how to correct it. Exposure is a very nebulous thing with most every photographer having their own idea as to what is correct. It's more of an art than an exact science. There are a number of variables that you have to learn to "see" in order to make the exposure you want. You have to develop a cameras eye, that's learning to see what the camera sees and how each of the exposure adjustments affect the outcome. For all the great advances in electronics a camera is still only an innate object that will only take photos the way you ask it to.</p><p></p><p>1) The Gray Card (or White Card) - Either a 18% Gray Card or a White Card will set the white balance in the camera. They should not be used to try to set the exposure. To set exposure you need a series of contrasting gray colors side by side to see how the camera is recording each one. A camera that is set to read white balance on an 18% Gray Card (White Card) is reading only the colors being reflected off the card and does not read exposure which is a different type adjustment. A white card and the 18% Gray Card are both basically neutral in colors reflected. That is why either the white or 18% gray can be used to set white balance. </p><p></p><p>2) To see how the camera is performing on exposure. You should use a card with a gray scale. This is usually nine patches starting with white and increasing in gray color until the ninth one is black. The center patch is an 18% gray. This is also often referred to as a gray tone scale. In checking how the camera is performing you should take a picture of this gray scale in normal day light. If the exposure is normal then you should be able to distinguish between all nine patches of gray from the white one to the black one. If any two or more seem to merge then you have either underexposed or overexposed. If the white patch and the one next to it have merged to the same color then you have overexposure. Vice versa if the black patch and the one next to it have merged then you have underexposed. </p><p></p><p>3) If you want to change the exposure you can do an exposure compensation in camera. On the top of the camera behind the on/off switch to the right you will find the exposure compensation button. It has a +/- printed on it. You use that button to increase or decrease the exposure. See page 90 of the users manual for the instructions on how to use it. When you put an exposure compensation value + or - into the camera it will remain until you change it. Each change you make, either + or - represents 1/3 f/stop. (The exposure compensation button is often referred to as the EV button or <strong>E</strong>xposure <strong>V</strong>alue compensation button.)</p><p></p><p>Another way to use this gray tone scale is to take a picture of it before a photo shoot. Then in post processing, that shot will tell you if you are under or overexposed and, you can make exposure adjustments to your shots accordingly. </p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joseph Bautsch, post: 19293, member: 654"] Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. I covered a lot of territory in my last post so it may have been confusing. Your question was concerning exposure and how to correct it. Exposure is a very nebulous thing with most every photographer having their own idea as to what is correct. It's more of an art than an exact science. There are a number of variables that you have to learn to "see" in order to make the exposure you want. You have to develop a cameras eye, that's learning to see what the camera sees and how each of the exposure adjustments affect the outcome. For all the great advances in electronics a camera is still only an innate object that will only take photos the way you ask it to. 1) The Gray Card (or White Card) - Either a 18% Gray Card or a White Card will set the white balance in the camera. They should not be used to try to set the exposure. To set exposure you need a series of contrasting gray colors side by side to see how the camera is recording each one. A camera that is set to read white balance on an 18% Gray Card (White Card) is reading only the colors being reflected off the card and does not read exposure which is a different type adjustment. A white card and the 18% Gray Card are both basically neutral in colors reflected. That is why either the white or 18% gray can be used to set white balance. 2) To see how the camera is performing on exposure. You should use a card with a gray scale. This is usually nine patches starting with white and increasing in gray color until the ninth one is black. The center patch is an 18% gray. This is also often referred to as a gray tone scale. In checking how the camera is performing you should take a picture of this gray scale in normal day light. If the exposure is normal then you should be able to distinguish between all nine patches of gray from the white one to the black one. If any two or more seem to merge then you have either underexposed or overexposed. If the white patch and the one next to it have merged to the same color then you have overexposure. Vice versa if the black patch and the one next to it have merged then you have underexposed. 3) If you want to change the exposure you can do an exposure compensation in camera. On the top of the camera behind the on/off switch to the right you will find the exposure compensation button. It has a +/- printed on it. You use that button to increase or decrease the exposure. See page 90 of the users manual for the instructions on how to use it. When you put an exposure compensation value + or - into the camera it will remain until you change it. Each change you make, either + or - represents 1/3 f/stop. (The exposure compensation button is often referred to as the EV button or [B]E[/B]xposure [B]V[/B]alue compensation button.) Another way to use this gray tone scale is to take a picture of it before a photo shoot. Then in post processing, that shot will tell you if you are under or overexposed and, you can make exposure adjustments to your shots accordingly. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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