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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 837776" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>FILE PROPERTIES</p><p></p><p>[ ./ ]</p><p>Content-type: image/jpeg</p><p>Size: 2352128 bytes (2.24 MB)</p><p>Last modified: Tue, 30 Sep 2025 23:37:23 GMT</p><p>Dimensions: 1507x3470 pixels</p><p></p><p>IMAGE META DATA</p><p></p><p>Date: 2025-09-21 21:49:30 (no TZ)</p><p>Make: NIKON CORPORATION</p><p>Model: NIKON D7500</p><p>Lens: TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm F2.8 Di LD IF Macro A001N</p><p>Focal Length: 200mm, 300mm (35mm equivalent)</p><p><strong>Aperture: ƒ/2.8</strong></p><p><strong>Exposure Time: 0.0008s (1/1250) </strong><span style="color: rgb(41, 105, 176)">You might be able to use a slower shutter here</span></p><p><strong>ISO equivalent: 40000 </strong><span style="color: rgb(41, 105, 176)">Far too high, this is the reason for the noisy photos</span></p><p>Flash Fired: No (enforced)</p><p>White Balance: Auto</p><p>Orientation: Normal</p><p>Software: Adobe Lightroom 10.5.0 (iOS)</p><p><strong>Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto) </strong><span style="color: rgb(41, 105, 176)">This is an auto-exposure mode, not manual. But it is also the mode I would choose.</span></p><p>Exposure Bias: none</p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"><strong>Metering Mode: Matrix </strong></span><span style="color: rgb(41, 105, 176)">I was wondering about this, but again the mode I would use also.</span></p><p>Focal Length: 200</p><p>Color Space: sRGB</p><p>Focal Length (35mm): 300</p><p>LensModel: Macro A001N</p><p></p><p>I cannot pick much apart here. If I were trying to shoot this, I would also be in Shutter Priority mode with auto ISO. The ISO for this image would up very high. This is where I would compromise and try to slow down the shutter speed. The aperture is already opened as wide as it goes so no more help to get there. I might try some shots at 1/500 and see if motion blur becomes an issue.</p><p></p><p>Camera settings that could help the photos: look for a menu item that might say something like High ISO NR (turn on). And you can cap the maximum ISO that Auto ISO will go to, and I would consider making that 12,800. It can keep the high-ISO noise to something that can be fixed better in post processing.</p><p></p><p>PS: Ok, I just re-read the original post. The "bad" example is taken at night. Problem is simple here, stadium lights do not come near the brightness of daylight. It's why the auto-ISO jumped so high. You either accept the noisy images or accept motion blur on fast-action by slowing the shutter speed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 837776, member: 48483"] FILE PROPERTIES [ ./ ] Content-type: image/jpeg Size: 2352128 bytes (2.24 MB) Last modified: Tue, 30 Sep 2025 23:37:23 GMT Dimensions: 1507x3470 pixels IMAGE META DATA Date: 2025-09-21 21:49:30 (no TZ) Make: NIKON CORPORATION Model: NIKON D7500 Lens: TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm F2.8 Di LD IF Macro A001N Focal Length: 200mm, 300mm (35mm equivalent) [B]Aperture: ƒ/2.8 Exposure Time: 0.0008s (1/1250) [/B][COLOR=rgb(41, 105, 176)]You might be able to use a slower shutter here[/COLOR] [B]ISO equivalent: 40000 [/B][COLOR=rgb(41, 105, 176)]Far too high, this is the reason for the noisy photos[/COLOR] Flash Fired: No (enforced) White Balance: Auto Orientation: Normal Software: Adobe Lightroom 10.5.0 (iOS) [B]Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto) [/B][COLOR=rgb(41, 105, 176)]This is an auto-exposure mode, not manual. But it is also the mode I would choose.[/COLOR] Exposure Bias: none [COLOR=rgb(0, 0, 0)][B]Metering Mode: Matrix [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=rgb(41, 105, 176)]I was wondering about this, but again the mode I would use also.[/COLOR] Focal Length: 200 Color Space: sRGB Focal Length (35mm): 300 LensModel: Macro A001N I cannot pick much apart here. If I were trying to shoot this, I would also be in Shutter Priority mode with auto ISO. The ISO for this image would up very high. This is where I would compromise and try to slow down the shutter speed. The aperture is already opened as wide as it goes so no more help to get there. I might try some shots at 1/500 and see if motion blur becomes an issue. Camera settings that could help the photos: look for a menu item that might say something like High ISO NR (turn on). And you can cap the maximum ISO that Auto ISO will go to, and I would consider making that 12,800. It can keep the high-ISO noise to something that can be fixed better in post processing. PS: Ok, I just re-read the original post. The "bad" example is taken at night. Problem is simple here, stadium lights do not come near the brightness of daylight. It's why the auto-ISO jumped so high. You either accept the noisy images or accept motion blur on fast-action by slowing the shutter speed. [/QUOTE]
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