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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D750
how your auto iso and flash works ?
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<blockquote data-quote="alaios" data-source="post: 557647" data-attributes="member: 41911"><p>So I have spent one more evening trying.</p><p>I think I get closer to what might be the problem. I think it is not that the camera ignores my -3 FEC but it does not have any more latitude for weaker flashing.</p><p></p><p>Let me try to explain</p><p>at f/2.2, 1/200 iso 1600 and subject being around 2-3 meters if I turn to manual my flash and fire it at 1/128 (which is the weakest output) that simply blows out completely the shot. With all the histogram being from the middle area to highlights area full.</p><p>When I turn to flash to TTL at FEC -3 I get a better shot that looks just properly exposed (like +0 FEC) which I guesss hows that my flash can not simply flash at a lighter intensity (and this also explains why FEC -3, FEC-2, Fec-1 and FEC 0) are all alike.</p><p></p><p>Now the tough part would be to know in advance when I get on these "areas" and being able to make aperture smaller or reduce iso. </p><p>Since I use manual mode so to have my shutter speed at 1/200 it is still a question on where I should have my iso to still </p><p>1. allow my background to register</p><p>and</p><p>2. being at a region where my lowest power of my flash would not make shot to be blown completely.</p><p></p><p>Last question since I am using manual mode to have a shutter speed I need, I wonder since I have my iso fixed and aperture, then turning the EC dial would make it equivalent to FEC.. right? Since now the EC only can change flash output since everything else is dialed in.</p><p>Let me know where I am wrong in all above</p><p>Regards</p><p>Alex</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="alaios, post: 557647, member: 41911"] So I have spent one more evening trying. I think I get closer to what might be the problem. I think it is not that the camera ignores my -3 FEC but it does not have any more latitude for weaker flashing. Let me try to explain at f/2.2, 1/200 iso 1600 and subject being around 2-3 meters if I turn to manual my flash and fire it at 1/128 (which is the weakest output) that simply blows out completely the shot. With all the histogram being from the middle area to highlights area full. When I turn to flash to TTL at FEC -3 I get a better shot that looks just properly exposed (like +0 FEC) which I guesss hows that my flash can not simply flash at a lighter intensity (and this also explains why FEC -3, FEC-2, Fec-1 and FEC 0) are all alike. Now the tough part would be to know in advance when I get on these "areas" and being able to make aperture smaller or reduce iso. Since I use manual mode so to have my shutter speed at 1/200 it is still a question on where I should have my iso to still 1. allow my background to register and 2. being at a region where my lowest power of my flash would not make shot to be blown completely. Last question since I am using manual mode to have a shutter speed I need, I wonder since I have my iso fixed and aperture, then turning the EC dial would make it equivalent to FEC.. right? Since now the EC only can change flash output since everything else is dialed in. Let me know where I am wrong in all above Regards Alex [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D750
how your auto iso and flash works ?
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