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Message: <blockquote data-quote="alaios" data-source="post: 557134" data-attributes="member: 41911">Thanks for the detailed answer. I appreciate your time. I need to ask back some questions I have.FEC in camera and in flash body simply add to a total, so these two are the same thing, they add to the same total.  And camera EC also adds to it, unless overridden in D750 menu E4.The camera meter we see (indicating 0 EV now) is only reading the ambient exposure.  It is not affected by flash.  Flash has not fired yet, and flash has its own invisible metering system anyway.    But flash will contribute to total exposure.I agree totally with the above.It does seem a bit bright, but you are fully exposing the ambient with ISO 1600 and 1/8 second and f/2.5.  Any additional exposure from flash adds  to add to be more than that existing full ambient exposure.   -2 EV flash compensation will add and lift fully exposed ambient by 25%, which is 1/3 stop overexposure of the near foreground affected by flash (flash percentage calculator at <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics4.html#percent" target="_blank">Flash pictures are Double Exposures- Outdoors</a> ).and how I can set my flash to only lift the shadows? What would be the correct setting for that? -3 FEC? Btw, I think I tried it as well but the exposure was the sameRemember that you are affected by Nikons TTL BL automation.   If the scene is brightly and fully illuminated (as here, with your ISO 1600 and 1/8 second and f/2.5), then it automatically provides less flash fill, trying to minimize overexposure by adding flash.  Automation interferes with your own efforts, automation knows what it is trying to do, and it can sometimes tend to ignore you.  Saying, in this TTL BL case, I really doubt you will see any difference between -2 EV flash compensation, and 0 EV flash compensation.   Automation has its own goals.  I am agreeing with you, but you may not like my reasons.Can this be the reason that the SB-500 also works as that? Is TTL BL the default for all available TTL flashes for nikon available (third manufacturers as well?) How I make sure I overcome it in all flashes (question about spot metering below)The default TTL BL mode really expects to do its own automatic flash compensation.  Your events will be much more controllable if you use manual flash mode, and then do what you see you need to do to get the results you want.But automation will generally give automated results, the opposite of user control.Yes but is not easy to shoot and go events to handle with manual flash. Think of wedding like reception. I would like to have a FEC of -2 just to fill in shadows in eye areas for exampleOr, switching to TTL mode (as opposed to default TTL BL mode) will be different, no system compensation automation trying for its own goals.I will test it. How I can use SB-500 and SB-700 withouth TTL BL.Your words suggest you expect TTL mode, but the Nikon flash metering default is TTL BL instead.  Balanced flash, in its own way.Perhaps yes. That is how I learned to work with my tiny sony.Spot metering will make that switch,  TTL flash mode overrides TTL BL mode, but then you get Spot metering for the ambient, which introduces other issues, perhaps unexpected.  Spot metering is not a point&shoot effort, instead we must understand how to use it.   But if you can get the ambient exposure as you want it, then TTL mode will respond properly to flash compensation.I expect the above to be really hard for events. Or kids running in the playgroundYou and I have different goals.  My goal is to suppress ambient in flash pictures, which makes it easy.  Your goal is to fully support the ambient, much more complicated.  But I think you would like manual flash mode to do that, so you can control it.I like to turn ambient to pitch black in my studio type of work. But outdoors and on events it is a nightmare.Thanks againAlex</blockquote>

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