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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D7000
How to tell if I have a good working model
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<blockquote data-quote="westmill" data-source="post: 59791" data-attributes="member: 9330"><p>Live veiw uses contrast focussing so low light is often a problem so you should seek areas of high contrast for it</p><p>to enable accurate focussing. in good light, live veiw is very accurate indeed.</p><p>Im often wary of back and front focussing issues. More often than not I find its more user error than camera fault.</p><p>one thing I often find, is when using a single point is how a lot of people take there focus and recompose the shot.</p><p>If using a wide aprature especialy, just the act of recomposing the camera can be enough to get the camera away from spot on focus. Other issues can be a lot of zooms suffer from a curved focus feild etc.</p><p>One of the biggest culprits of people thinking they have back or front focussing issues is down to the size of the focus points. Ive tested a few cameras for this, but unfortunately Ive not tested a D7000. Ive tested the D300 and D700 and a D3s and a pentax K5. The pentax K5 is a prime example for this. the K5 is known widely for having back to front focussing problems. Its actualy nothing more than the size of the focus sensors. The Nikon sensors have all coresponded to the little red squares very accurately. The snsors on the K5 are simply huge though and are about 8 times the size of the Nikons. They are that big on the K5 you can think your foccussing on an eye for example, but</p><p>the sensor can easily pick up on the ear or even nose ( hence front or back focus thoughts ).</p><p>You can easily check the size of your sensors by putting a dot in the middle of a peice of A4 paper. The camera will hunt until it hits the focus point. If it falls into line with the likes Of the D300 etc I would expect them to be fine and be</p><p>the same size as the red focus square. It may be fine, but its worth checking. Its also possable they could be out of line even if they are small. IE not quite coresponding with the focus squares.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="westmill, post: 59791, member: 9330"] Live veiw uses contrast focussing so low light is often a problem so you should seek areas of high contrast for it to enable accurate focussing. in good light, live veiw is very accurate indeed. Im often wary of back and front focussing issues. More often than not I find its more user error than camera fault. one thing I often find, is when using a single point is how a lot of people take there focus and recompose the shot. If using a wide aprature especialy, just the act of recomposing the camera can be enough to get the camera away from spot on focus. Other issues can be a lot of zooms suffer from a curved focus feild etc. One of the biggest culprits of people thinking they have back or front focussing issues is down to the size of the focus points. Ive tested a few cameras for this, but unfortunately Ive not tested a D7000. Ive tested the D300 and D700 and a D3s and a pentax K5. The pentax K5 is a prime example for this. the K5 is known widely for having back to front focussing problems. Its actualy nothing more than the size of the focus sensors. The Nikon sensors have all coresponded to the little red squares very accurately. The snsors on the K5 are simply huge though and are about 8 times the size of the Nikons. They are that big on the K5 you can think your foccussing on an eye for example, but the sensor can easily pick up on the ear or even nose ( hence front or back focus thoughts ). You can easily check the size of your sensors by putting a dot in the middle of a peice of A4 paper. The camera will hunt until it hits the focus point. If it falls into line with the likes Of the D300 etc I would expect them to be fine and be the same size as the red focus square. It may be fine, but its worth checking. Its also possable they could be out of line even if they are small. IE not quite coresponding with the focus squares. [/QUOTE]
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D7000
How to tell if I have a good working model
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