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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 276161" data-attributes="member: 9240">The general rule of thumb was always that anything below 50mm on a film camera was considered &quot;wide angle&quot;, and anything below 28mm was more or less considered &quot;ultra-wide angle&quot;.&nbsp; On a cropped sensor (DX) camera like yours, that means anything below 35mm is &quot;wide angle&quot; and anything below 18mm is considered &quot;ultra-wide&quot;.So, you have &quot;wide&quot; covered, but not the ultra-wide, which is where you start getting into the perspective-bending and distortion that most folks associate with the idea of &quot;wide angle&quot;.&nbsp; Unless you're looking to play with weird distortions and odd clarity issues, I'd stay away from anything that mounts on the front of another lens.&nbsp; They can be cool for special effects, but are not something you would want if you're serious about a nice sharp photo.The primary difference between an ultra-wide angle and a fisheye is the amount of barrel distortion.&nbsp; Most ultra-wides will attempt to correct the curved lines you get with wide views, where fisheyes do not.&nbsp; And with fisheyes there are two types, circular, which as the name suggests gives you a black circle around the image, and non-circular which are essentially ultra-wides without perspective correction.&nbsp; I shoot them all for varying reasons, and if you look through my various 365 posts and my Flickr account you can see examples of each, both on FX and DX cameras.There are many, many, MANY tutorials out there, so I highly recommend you read through the wide-angle section of this forum, and google the heck out of &quot;wide angle and fisheye primers&quot;.&nbsp; You'll find more recommendations than you could ever use in both places, so before you make any decisions make sure you have a good look at what people are producing with various lenses.&nbsp; I would grab a good ultra-wide zoom to start - the Tokina mentioned above and a couple Sigmas tend to be the favorites.&nbsp; From there you can decide if you want to venture into the world of the fisheye.&nbsp; It's not for everyone. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink&nbsp; &nbsp; ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 276161, member: 9240"] The general rule of thumb was always that anything below 50mm on a film camera was considered "wide angle", and anything below 28mm was more or less considered "ultra-wide angle". On a cropped sensor (DX) camera like yours, that means anything below 35mm is "wide angle" and anything below 18mm is considered "ultra-wide". So, you have "wide" covered, but not the ultra-wide, which is where you start getting into the perspective-bending and distortion that most folks associate with the idea of "wide angle". Unless you're looking to play with weird distortions and odd clarity issues, I'd stay away from anything that mounts on the front of another lens. They can be cool for special effects, but are not something you would want if you're serious about a nice sharp photo. The primary difference between an ultra-wide angle and a fisheye is the amount of barrel distortion. Most ultra-wides will attempt to correct the curved lines you get with wide views, where fisheyes do not. And with fisheyes there are two types, circular, which as the name suggests gives you a black circle around the image, and non-circular which are essentially ultra-wides without perspective correction. I shoot them all for varying reasons, and if you look through my various 365 posts and my Flickr account you can see examples of each, both on FX and DX cameras. There are many, many, MANY tutorials out there, so I highly recommend you read through the wide-angle section of this forum, and google the heck out of "wide angle and fisheye primers". You'll find more recommendations than you could ever use in both places, so before you make any decisions make sure you have a good look at what people are producing with various lenses. I would grab a good ultra-wide zoom to start - the Tokina mentioned above and a couple Sigmas tend to be the favorites. From there you can decide if you want to venture into the world of the fisheye. It's not for everyone. ;) [/QUOTE]

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