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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 527642" data-attributes="member: 12496">OK, great on the bulbs, I misunderstood.The WB concept is to include a KNOWN neutral color (white or light gray), which specifically has equal RGB colors, called neutral, no color cast present.&nbsp; &nbsp; Clicking that known neutral color tells the WB tool that &quot;this spot is neutral, make it be neutral&quot;, meaning no color cast.&nbsp; And it does, and we like that.If you pick a spot of color blue or red or green (not equal RGB colors) it will also make that spot neutral (or try to, it may not have sufficient range).&nbsp; But that seems meaningless, because the tool expects a known neutral color there.If you know your picture is blue, then sure, you can just remove blue until it looks better to you.&nbsp; But to try to use and depend on some unknown blue card seems a distraction.&nbsp; A blue card in a blue light will be made white, but overcorrected, doubly corrected, and your picture will go orange.&nbsp; Because obviously, the blue card should look blue in a corrected picture.It is not about some standard photo.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is 100% about the color of the light that your current subject is in.&nbsp; The camera&nbsp; has no clue what color of light is in your scene.&nbsp;&nbsp; Auto WB tries, but it does not know either... it just hopes your scene is &quot;average&quot; and should have some average color. Recent better Auto WB tools have safeguard limits to not make blue sky or green forest scenes come out white. But Auto WB, while improving, is far from perfect.&nbsp; It's a dumb computer, with no clue what the scene is, or what color the light is.The camera does have &quot;standard&quot; incandescent, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, etc&nbsp; WB processes, where it does correct for the expected light color there.&nbsp; But there are many different shades of all of these, so it is quite imprecise.&nbsp; We simply never know the lights color temperature any better, we cannot judge it by eye (with possibly the one exception of direct bright sunlight... but there is also hazy, cloudy, shade, sunset, etc, etc).So the WB solution is to provide a KNOWN neutral color, and to then correct it to actually be neutral (neutral meaning, equal RGB components in the color it appears to show in the current light).&nbsp;&nbsp; Make the neutral color actually show to be neutral, and there will be no color cast left.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 527642, member: 12496"] OK, great on the bulbs, I misunderstood. The WB concept is to include a KNOWN neutral color (white or light gray), which specifically has equal RGB colors, called neutral, no color cast present. Clicking that known neutral color tells the WB tool that "this spot is neutral, make it be neutral", meaning no color cast. And it does, and we like that. If you pick a spot of color blue or red or green (not equal RGB colors) it will also make that spot neutral (or try to, it may not have sufficient range). But that seems meaningless, because the tool expects a known neutral color there. If you know your picture is blue, then sure, you can just remove blue until it looks better to you. But to try to use and depend on some unknown blue card seems a distraction. A blue card in a blue light will be made white, but overcorrected, doubly corrected, and your picture will go orange. Because obviously, the blue card should look blue in a corrected picture. It is not about some standard photo. It is 100% about the color of the light that your current subject is in. The camera has no clue what color of light is in your scene. Auto WB tries, but it does not know either... it just hopes your scene is "average" and should have some average color. Recent better Auto WB tools have safeguard limits to not make blue sky or green forest scenes come out white. But Auto WB, while improving, is far from perfect. It's a dumb computer, with no clue what the scene is, or what color the light is. The camera does have "standard" incandescent, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, etc WB processes, where it does correct for the expected light color there. But there are many different shades of all of these, so it is quite imprecise. We simply never know the lights color temperature any better, we cannot judge it by eye (with possibly the one exception of direct bright sunlight... but there is also hazy, cloudy, shade, sunset, etc, etc). So the WB solution is to provide a KNOWN neutral color, and to then correct it to actually be neutral (neutral meaning, equal RGB components in the color it appears to show in the current light). Make the neutral color actually show to be neutral, and there will be no color cast left. [/QUOTE]

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