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General Photography
Landscape
Hot Pixels On Long Exposures
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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 226757" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p>I know of no "automatic fix" in Lightroom for noise, and I wouldn't expect or want it as I'd want to be able to adjust for noise on a photo by photo basis. They do have both Color and Luminance Noise adjustment sliders. </p><p></p><p>According to the EXIF data this is a 923 second exposure. That's a LONG time - over 15 minutes. That's plenty of time for the sensor to heat up and produce hot pixels and general sensor noise. What you can do is produce a similar black image by covering both the lens and the eyepiece and shoot a 923 second black exposure, which should theoretically produce the same level of sensor noise in the same areas. You can then use that image with the original RAW file to subtract out the noise. This is the same methodology that the camera uses with Long Exposure NR without having to wait out in the field for a second 15 minute period while the camera produces the black image and then does the subtraction in-camera.</p><p></p><p>There's a difference between hot sensor noise and hot pixels. As [USER=13196]@hark[/USER] stated, a hot pixel is always hot, regardless of exposure times. What you have is evidence of an overheated sensor. And a lovely shot, btw. If you wanted, you can desaturate your reds, magentas and purples in LR without impacting the overall color of the photo - at least not to my eyes. The spots are still there, but they're white instead of hot pink. Or, if you prefer, after doing basic adjustments in LR you can send it to Photoshop and use color-specific noise reduction. I did 100% NR on the red and green channels, reducing details to 0%. This took out a ton of noise, and was very effective given that you're image is almost all shades of blue (i.e. this may not have worked as well on a more color-full image). From there it was just a matter of using the spot healing brush to take out the white flecks that were left. Harder to see on a 1000px upload, but I can shoot you the full size image if you'd like. You definitely loose some sharpness on the rocks, but again this was done quickly and on a JPEG and not the RAW file.</p><p></p><p>Lots of options available to you.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]61380[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 226757, member: 9240"] I know of no "automatic fix" in Lightroom for noise, and I wouldn't expect or want it as I'd want to be able to adjust for noise on a photo by photo basis. They do have both Color and Luminance Noise adjustment sliders. According to the EXIF data this is a 923 second exposure. That's a LONG time - over 15 minutes. That's plenty of time for the sensor to heat up and produce hot pixels and general sensor noise. What you can do is produce a similar black image by covering both the lens and the eyepiece and shoot a 923 second black exposure, which should theoretically produce the same level of sensor noise in the same areas. You can then use that image with the original RAW file to subtract out the noise. This is the same methodology that the camera uses with Long Exposure NR without having to wait out in the field for a second 15 minute period while the camera produces the black image and then does the subtraction in-camera. There's a difference between hot sensor noise and hot pixels. As [USER=13196]@hark[/USER] stated, a hot pixel is always hot, regardless of exposure times. What you have is evidence of an overheated sensor. And a lovely shot, btw. If you wanted, you can desaturate your reds, magentas and purples in LR without impacting the overall color of the photo - at least not to my eyes. The spots are still there, but they're white instead of hot pink. Or, if you prefer, after doing basic adjustments in LR you can send it to Photoshop and use color-specific noise reduction. I did 100% NR on the red and green channels, reducing details to 0%. This took out a ton of noise, and was very effective given that you're image is almost all shades of blue (i.e. this may not have worked as well on a more color-full image). From there it was just a matter of using the spot healing brush to take out the white flecks that were left. Harder to see on a 1000px upload, but I can shoot you the full size image if you'd like. You definitely loose some sharpness on the rocks, but again this was done quickly and on a JPEG and not the RAW file. Lots of options available to you. [ATTACH type="full"]61380._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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