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Home studio.. will this work?
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 596585" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>You will really enjoy that studio capability, but there are some problems. However, I'm not familiar with the Neewer trigger (and don't know which one, etc). I wondered about the "Reflector / Diffuser light boxes" too.</p><p></p><p>But one problem with off camera is that the SB-400 has no LCD and no menu and no mode switches. Its design works if on the camera hot shoe, and it is then designed to use the cameras internal flash menu to set modes. Which is not available off camera, and I don't think it can even work at all if off camera, with no way to chose a mode. One exception possibly could be if you had a fancy TTL trigger that could fool it into assuming TTL mode, maybe, no bets, I don't know for sure if it is possible? </p><p> But IMO, that money would be much better spent on another flash instead.</p><p></p><p>You didn't mention Manual flash mode or TTL flash mode? With suitable flashes (that are complete with menus, and so can work off camera), Manual flash mode would easily allow two flashes to be off camera. With optical slaves, or radio triggers, etc... No big deal.</p><p></p><p>However you mentioned S2 which implies TTL. Not for the VK750, its slave mode has to be in Manual flash mode, but S2 allows it to be triggered by a TTL flash. Most inexpensive triggers cannot do TTL. But S2 would work if the SB-400 were on the hot shoe so it could work. Or if the SB-400 is on the hot shoe to work, you can of course use manual flash mode for both, and use S1 instead (for manual flash trigger). One redeeming point is that fill flash is best located very near the camera anyway, to light exactly what the lens sees.</p><p></p><p>And frankly (one very common opinion), you don't even want TTL in the studio. Your setup situation is fixed, the lights are on stands and are not moving around. The subject is carefully located in the field of the fixed flashes, and is not moving around. You setup the lights up carefully, and then they do not change for the duration of the session. You get it like you want it, and nothing changes. One proper exposure works for the full session. That is Manual flash mode. And Manual flash mode allows full control, however you set up the lights to do it (instead of whatever the automation does, which is NOT full control). And most any $60 speedlight (like Yongnuo YN560 versions) will do Manual mode very well.</p><p></p><p>Manual flash means you have to be able to adjust the flash power levels yourself (no TTL automation). You have to adjust the exposure of both flashes, by adjusting their individual power levels. This is pretty easy for one flash. For only two lights, this can be done by trial and error, until you can make the picture look like you want it to look. However, if doing much of it, then by far the easy way (in the studio) is to meter each light with a flash meter, then they will be exactly what you want. The two light levels determine your lighting ratio, which is extremely important, a big part of portrait photos. And the best part, then this setup will be quickly and easily repeatable next time they are set up. The light meter is not inexpensive however, but it will be pretty important for multiple manual flash.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 596585, member: 12496"] You will really enjoy that studio capability, but there are some problems. However, I'm not familiar with the Neewer trigger (and don't know which one, etc). I wondered about the "Reflector / Diffuser light boxes" too. But one problem with off camera is that the SB-400 has no LCD and no menu and no mode switches. Its design works if on the camera hot shoe, and it is then designed to use the cameras internal flash menu to set modes. Which is not available off camera, and I don't think it can even work at all if off camera, with no way to chose a mode. One exception possibly could be if you had a fancy TTL trigger that could fool it into assuming TTL mode, maybe, no bets, I don't know for sure if it is possible? But IMO, that money would be much better spent on another flash instead. You didn't mention Manual flash mode or TTL flash mode? With suitable flashes (that are complete with menus, and so can work off camera), Manual flash mode would easily allow two flashes to be off camera. With optical slaves, or radio triggers, etc... No big deal. However you mentioned S2 which implies TTL. Not for the VK750, its slave mode has to be in Manual flash mode, but S2 allows it to be triggered by a TTL flash. Most inexpensive triggers cannot do TTL. But S2 would work if the SB-400 were on the hot shoe so it could work. Or if the SB-400 is on the hot shoe to work, you can of course use manual flash mode for both, and use S1 instead (for manual flash trigger). One redeeming point is that fill flash is best located very near the camera anyway, to light exactly what the lens sees. And frankly (one very common opinion), you don't even want TTL in the studio. Your setup situation is fixed, the lights are on stands and are not moving around. The subject is carefully located in the field of the fixed flashes, and is not moving around. You setup the lights up carefully, and then they do not change for the duration of the session. You get it like you want it, and nothing changes. One proper exposure works for the full session. That is Manual flash mode. And Manual flash mode allows full control, however you set up the lights to do it (instead of whatever the automation does, which is NOT full control). And most any $60 speedlight (like Yongnuo YN560 versions) will do Manual mode very well. Manual flash means you have to be able to adjust the flash power levels yourself (no TTL automation). You have to adjust the exposure of both flashes, by adjusting their individual power levels. This is pretty easy for one flash. For only two lights, this can be done by trial and error, until you can make the picture look like you want it to look. However, if doing much of it, then by far the easy way (in the studio) is to meter each light with a flash meter, then they will be exactly what you want. The two light levels determine your lighting ratio, which is extremely important, a big part of portrait photos. And the best part, then this setup will be quickly and easily repeatable next time they are set up. The light meter is not inexpensive however, but it will be pretty important for multiple manual flash. [/QUOTE]
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