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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 329226" data-attributes="member: 12496">Tom, everyone new typically thinks they need big power, but that is wrong.   Too much as as bad as too little.   Unless you are planning heroic things (far flash distances, or overwhelming the sun outdoors), the B1600 will be too much power for you.  It will quite inconvenient, in the living room, you will likely be unable to turn it down far enough to use it.   It is high power for unusual situations.I have two B400 and two B800.  I much prefer the B400 for most things, including the main light in a Large softbox, typically between 1/16 and 1/8 power, at ISO 100 and f/8 or f/10.  I put the fill light in a large umbrella behind the camera, typically at maybe 11 feet, and it might be a B800 at less than half power.  Or a B400 could do that at full power.  That 11 feet is a LARGE distance, but it works for fill.  The main light is is normally about as close as it can go, which is what makes it soft, but it doesn't need high power.It runs like this:B400 is 160 watt seconds, and is about double the SB-700 powerB800 is 320 watt seconds, and is double the B400 power.B1600 is 640 watt seconds, and is double the B800 power.Double power is one stop.Frankly, I would start with the B400.  It will be double the power of the SB-700, which it can of course do some things too, but it probably won't be at full power.Each flash comes with a 15 foot PC sync cord.   You put the light on a light stand, add a modifier like an umbrella, and run the cord to the camera.  That's all you need.   If the camera does not have a PC socket, a Nikon AS-15 is a good one (on the hot shoe), or Paul C Buff company has another one that works.   And maybe a handheld light meter for the manual flashes.   If you add more AB lights, they all have slaves, and are all triggered by the flash of that first one.  The SB-700 has its SU-4 mode, which is a slave, which is also triggered by the other flashes.  Saying use of the one sync cord to the one nearest flash is the only cable used.  This all works really well.You can add radio triggers to replace the PC sync cord.  If you are handholding the camera, that's better than the trailing cord.  If camera is on a tripod, the PC cord is no bother at all.     Pocket Wizards are relatively pricy... There are cheap imports, and Paul Buff has their own version, which are popular, offering some remote control features.  I use the PC sync cord.See one of the Help pages:  <a href="http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe.php" target="_blank">Paul C. Buff - Studio Flash Explained</a>    See there "How Much Power".  It also suggests starting with the B400.    You can also phone the Paul C Buff company with buying questions.Prowl some at my signature link, esp under Lighting  there, and you may find things of interest.</blockquote>

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