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<blockquote data-quote="pforsell" data-source="post: 496198" data-attributes="member: 7240">Could you elaborate this part? I feel like you left something out and I cannot guess what it is.I have succesfully spot metered the sky since the 1980's. Using digital is not much different than using film, only with digital I must know my camera, with film I had to know my film. What I do, is first I need to know my camera: how much highlight headroom there is above middle gray. Let's say my camera has 3 stops headroom. I spot meter from the brightest part of the sky that I don't want to blow, and then I dial in EC +3.0 stops or +2.7 stops or whatever depending on the camera. This is no different from the old Adams' zone system: I am essentially placing the brightest highlights that I want to preserve into zone IX or X. And I let the shadows fall wherever they may. So, since you said that this will probably never work, what should be done differently? I have thousands of images that suggest that it could work.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="pforsell, post: 496198, member: 7240"] Could you elaborate this part? I feel like you left something out and I cannot guess what it is. I have succesfully spot metered the sky since the 1980's. Using digital is not much different than using film, only with digital I must know my camera, with film I had to know my film. What I do, is first I need to know my camera: how much highlight headroom there is above middle gray. Let's say my camera has 3 stops headroom. I spot meter from the brightest part of the sky that I don't want to blow, and then I dial in EC +3.0 stops or +2.7 stops or whatever depending on the camera. This is no different from the old Adams' zone system: I am essentially placing the brightest highlights that I want to preserve into zone IX or X. And I let the shadows fall wherever they may. So, since you said that this will probably never work, what should be done differently? I have thousands of images that suggest that it could work. [/QUOTE]

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