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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3100
Hdr
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<blockquote data-quote="Vixen" data-source="post: 371287" data-attributes="member: 21839"><p>You can do the under/over exposure in PP but you can't get natures slight shifting of light this way, unlike if you take separate shots. This subtle light shift makes the resulting photo better IMHO. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>If you were out on a windy day and there was a lot of movement, you could do the extra exposures in post to eliminate the movement, but some software eg NikHDR Pro2 has the great facility to choose one of the shots as the baseline for ghost reduction so that movement does not show up in the result.</p><p></p><p>You can also use layers to merge and select the highlights/shadows as you suggest in another post but for a lot of people (me for example, who cannot yet get my head around layers) find it easier to use dedicated HDR software</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Vixen, post: 371287, member: 21839"] You can do the under/over exposure in PP but you can't get natures slight shifting of light this way, unlike if you take separate shots. This subtle light shift makes the resulting photo better IMHO. :D If you were out on a windy day and there was a lot of movement, you could do the extra exposures in post to eliminate the movement, but some software eg NikHDR Pro2 has the great facility to choose one of the shots as the baseline for ghost reduction so that movement does not show up in the result. You can also use layers to merge and select the highlights/shadows as you suggest in another post but for a lot of people (me for example, who cannot yet get my head around layers) find it easier to use dedicated HDR software [/QUOTE]
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