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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
HDR with D3200?
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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 308964" data-attributes="member: 16090"><p>After replying to the post, I thought that I should put my money where my mouth is, that is try out what I had preached. So I took a series of shots and stitched them in Microsoft ICE. As that software is a panorama stitch program, you have to have a miniscule of overlap. So I took the shots hand held (that gave enough variability to the frame), saved the files to 16bit TIFF and loaded them into the software.</p><p></p><p>Got camera to set the exposure, took a shot, and then set camera in manual mode, and changed the exposure speed. These are of my back lane taken from the bedroom balcony. The sun was harsh and shadows quite deep.</p><p>[ATTACH]90174[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]90172[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]90173[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]90171[/ATTACH]</p><p>Nominal Exposure</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]90175[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]90176[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>HDR using Microsoft ICE</p><p>[ATTACH]90177[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And now comes the best thing. The image below is what I got after manipulating the shot taken at recommended exposure. Just levels and the tone curve, nothing else. This proves that the there is rarely any need for HDR with these sensors - the data is there in the 12 bits of NEF file. The HDR looks better and definitely worth it, but that took a lot of time and effort to shoot, convert and process. The image shown here is from just one shot from exposure that the camera determined. So a lot can be recovered from the sensor, before HDR is needed. With older sensors where the DR was low, HDR made sense, today the sensor takes care of most situations.</p><p>[ATTACH]90178[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aroy, post: 308964, member: 16090"] After replying to the post, I thought that I should put my money where my mouth is, that is try out what I had preached. So I took a series of shots and stitched them in Microsoft ICE. As that software is a panorama stitch program, you have to have a miniscule of overlap. So I took the shots hand held (that gave enough variability to the frame), saved the files to 16bit TIFF and loaded them into the software. Got camera to set the exposure, took a shot, and then set camera in manual mode, and changed the exposure speed. These are of my back lane taken from the bedroom balcony. The sun was harsh and shadows quite deep. [ATTACH=CONFIG]90174._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]90172._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]90173._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]90171._xfImport[/ATTACH] Nominal Exposure [ATTACH=CONFIG]90175._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]90176._xfImport[/ATTACH] HDR using Microsoft ICE [ATTACH=CONFIG]90177._xfImport[/ATTACH] And now comes the best thing. The image below is what I got after manipulating the shot taken at recommended exposure. Just levels and the tone curve, nothing else. This proves that the there is rarely any need for HDR with these sensors - the data is there in the 12 bits of NEF file. The HDR looks better and definitely worth it, but that took a lot of time and effort to shoot, convert and process. The image shown here is from just one shot from exposure that the camera determined. So a lot can be recovered from the sensor, before HDR is needed. With older sensors where the DR was low, HDR made sense, today the sensor takes care of most situations. [ATTACH=CONFIG]90178._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
HDR with D3200?
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