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Goldilocks and the three macro lenses
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<blockquote data-quote="aaron125" data-source="post: 693654" data-attributes="member: 44396"><p>That’d be either something like the Sigma 150mm or 180mm macros or the grand-daddy, and one of the sharpest lenses of all time, the Nikon 200mm f/4D macro (ok, micro). Unfortunately it doesn’t have VR or AFS but man, it is one hell of a lens. Not to mention that the focussing helicoid “gearing” is by far the best of all Nikon macro lenses in that it is much finer towards 1:1, in that one can focus SO much easier and with greater accuracy because for the same angle of rotation, the change in focus distance/magnification ratio is far less. </p><p></p><p>This is not how most use a macro lens nearing 1:1 anyway, but if tripod mounted it can be rather difficult to move the entire tripod toward or away from the subject. Of course, a macro focussing rail is an incredibly useful tool, but only if said device doesn’t alter the position of the camera/lens when locked into position. This is the problem I found with numerous rails I went through until I came across the Hejnar Photo micrometer adjustment macro rail. They now have the same device but with a screw adjustment, at somewhat less expensive price, but make absolutely sure you buy the version with the 100T.P.I. (Turns per inch) screw if you’re going to grab one. Don’t even consider their 20T.P.I. version. The micrometer adjust rails are great but had the 100T.P.I. screw version been around when I bought mine about 10-12 years ago I would have gone with that as the only benefit of the micrometer version is in knowing how far one is moving the camera/lens. </p><p></p><p>These rails are imho without peer. Don’t waste your time with a RRS, Markins or any other brand rail. Ok, perhaps the Novoflex but I believe the Hejnar units are built that much better and so much higher quality that the huge majority of other brand products available aren’t even in the same league. </p><p></p><p>One last consideration: the Nikon 105/2.8G VR is a fabulous lens and, I’d like me, you’re often shooting hand-held and trying to photograph bees or much else that doesn’t stay still for too long, then the VR and AFS are helpful beyond belief, even at 1:1. And the bokeh, contrast, micro-contrast, acuity, sharpness and build quality are superb. </p><p></p><p>Having said all that, even on a D810, Nikon’s near 50 year old 55mm f/3.5 (not sure if it was originally released as an AI/AIS lens but make sure you buy one that has been converted if they’re not like that from the factory, perhaps I was just lucky in that the first two I purchased both were AI/AIS) is an incredible lens. The first one I bought had almost no grease in the helicoid and it wouldn’t hold its focus at all, and was way too easy to turn the focus ring, completely un-damped but thankfully the 2nd one I purchased was perfect, both in external condition, internal condition (no fungus on the internal lens elements, nor any oil on the aperture blades) and the perfect amount of grease to dampen the focus ring. One can produce some fabulous images with these old lenses and with such ease. I never bothered with live-view, just get yourself a DG-2 eyepiece magnifier and it’s a great help. </p><p></p><p>Good luck and let us know what you decide upon. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aaron125, post: 693654, member: 44396"] That’d be either something like the Sigma 150mm or 180mm macros or the grand-daddy, and one of the sharpest lenses of all time, the Nikon 200mm f/4D macro (ok, micro). Unfortunately it doesn’t have VR or AFS but man, it is one hell of a lens. Not to mention that the focussing helicoid “gearing” is by far the best of all Nikon macro lenses in that it is much finer towards 1:1, in that one can focus SO much easier and with greater accuracy because for the same angle of rotation, the change in focus distance/magnification ratio is far less. This is not how most use a macro lens nearing 1:1 anyway, but if tripod mounted it can be rather difficult to move the entire tripod toward or away from the subject. Of course, a macro focussing rail is an incredibly useful tool, but only if said device doesn’t alter the position of the camera/lens when locked into position. This is the problem I found with numerous rails I went through until I came across the Hejnar Photo micrometer adjustment macro rail. They now have the same device but with a screw adjustment, at somewhat less expensive price, but make absolutely sure you buy the version with the 100T.P.I. (Turns per inch) screw if you’re going to grab one. Don’t even consider their 20T.P.I. version. The micrometer adjust rails are great but had the 100T.P.I. screw version been around when I bought mine about 10-12 years ago I would have gone with that as the only benefit of the micrometer version is in knowing how far one is moving the camera/lens. These rails are imho without peer. Don’t waste your time with a RRS, Markins or any other brand rail. Ok, perhaps the Novoflex but I believe the Hejnar units are built that much better and so much higher quality that the huge majority of other brand products available aren’t even in the same league. One last consideration: the Nikon 105/2.8G VR is a fabulous lens and, I’d like me, you’re often shooting hand-held and trying to photograph bees or much else that doesn’t stay still for too long, then the VR and AFS are helpful beyond belief, even at 1:1. And the bokeh, contrast, micro-contrast, acuity, sharpness and build quality are superb. Having said all that, even on a D810, Nikon’s near 50 year old 55mm f/3.5 (not sure if it was originally released as an AI/AIS lens but make sure you buy one that has been converted if they’re not like that from the factory, perhaps I was just lucky in that the first two I purchased both were AI/AIS) is an incredible lens. The first one I bought had almost no grease in the helicoid and it wouldn’t hold its focus at all, and was way too easy to turn the focus ring, completely un-damped but thankfully the 2nd one I purchased was perfect, both in external condition, internal condition (no fungus on the internal lens elements, nor any oil on the aperture blades) and the perfect amount of grease to dampen the focus ring. One can produce some fabulous images with these old lenses and with such ease. I never bothered with live-view, just get yourself a DG-2 eyepiece magnifier and it’s a great help. Good luck and let us know what you decide upon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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