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<blockquote data-quote="hark" data-source="post: 766387" data-attributes="member: 13196">Usually with an ND filter, the meter reading might require f/22 without the filter. So an ND filter is added - but before taking any photos - the aperture is compensated by opening up the same number of stops that is dialed in on the ND filter. So in essence, by doing this, it compensates for the ND filter. When using HSS or an ND filter, people do it so they can shoot wider open for a shallow depth of field. So if I wanted to shoot at f/5.6 for its bokeh but my meter tells me I have to stop down to f/22, then when using an ND filter, I need a 4-stop filter (or dial a variable ND filter to 4-stops). This will avoid going into HSS. BUT if it still requires the strobe to fire at full power, then lower the strobe to shoot at half power and use a 3-stop ND filter to compensate. That way the strobe will now fire at half power and won't go into overheating like it would at full power or HSS. No matter whether using HSS or an ND filter, sometimes there is a juggling with the ISO to get a good exposure dialed in. Learning this DID require wrapping my brain around the concept. Let me see if I can find a good video which explains this - but it will take some time to find one that does a good job of explaining the process.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="hark, post: 766387, member: 13196"] Usually with an ND filter, the meter reading might require f/22 without the filter. So an ND filter is added - but before taking any photos - the aperture is compensated by opening up the same number of stops that is dialed in on the ND filter. So in essence, by doing this, it compensates for the ND filter. When using HSS or an ND filter, people do it so they can shoot wider open for a shallow depth of field. So if I wanted to shoot at f/5.6 for its bokeh but my meter tells me I have to stop down to f/22, then when using an ND filter, I need a 4-stop filter (or dial a variable ND filter to 4-stops). This will avoid going into HSS. BUT if it still requires the strobe to fire at full power, then lower the strobe to shoot at half power and use a 3-stop ND filter to compensate. That way the strobe will now fire at half power and won't go into overheating like it would at full power or HSS. No matter whether using HSS or an ND filter, sometimes there is a juggling with the ISO to get a good exposure dialed in. Learning this DID require wrapping my brain around the concept. Let me see if I can find a good video which explains this - but it will take some time to find one that does a good job of explaining the process. [/QUOTE]

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