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Getting to M and Off Camera Flash
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<blockquote data-quote="Fortkentdad" data-source="post: 601330" data-attributes="member: 24285"><p>================= </p><p></p><p>When I speak of getting to "M" I am referring to both on camera and for the flash. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I got out of "auto" on the camera dial sometime ago and moved onto the "A" or "S" (never really looked at "P" but I think I should). Played with "M" a little bit - very little. I have to use "M" for my lensbaby as it is a fully manual lens so that was by necessity. </p><p></p><p></p><p>My flashes have always been TTL and when I'd go to off camera it was with Nikon's CLS which worked for me. Until I bought a big umbrella style softbox that enclosed the flash - the line of sight was lost and CLS failed. I also bought a smaller rectangular softbox at the same time but in that case the CLS 'eye' was outside the box so it was OK. </p><p></p><p></p><p>My venture to get the "M" off flash included watching many a youtube (love B&H's Event Space) and others. I also read a bit. And experimented. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I know I'll need to buy a radio trigger, not sure which one. Younguo is cheap enough and seems to have satisfied users. Godox X1 is same price and has a nice system to offer. Pocket Wizards are "industry standard for professionals" but OMG - three times the price. And Phottix is no better price wise. Cactus splits the differences and offers some unique features. Still not made up my mind with that. Using CLS in the meantime, just not using my big umbrella softbox. </p><p></p><p></p><p>From what you and others have said I can see that knowing how to set the camera to manual and have the flashes in manual would be a good thing - a very good thing to know how to do. Sometimes it makes sense to use TTL. With a camera mounted flash walking about at an event it makes sense. </p><p></p><p></p><p>One thing that puzzels me though is how having TTL with off camera flash works. I can see on camera with one flash as the camera meters the light needs 'through the lens' aka TTL and sets the lighting accordingly to get the 'perfect' average lighting. But if I mix TTL flash and M flash and some of my off camera flashes are modified (in a softbox) or bounced how does the camera factor that into the TTL equation? And how does the camera TTl system know how close my off camera flashes are to my subject. Proximity to the subject makes all the difference. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I see some systems offer 'pass through' TTL foot on the trigger (e.g. Cactus and some of the Pocket Wizards) but the remote flashes must be manual. In that situation how does the camera's TTL take into account the effect of the remote flashes. The camera's TTL system might know about the other flashes if it communicates with the trigger or if you use the on camera flash as a commander, but again, if modified in a softbox or otherwise, and proximity to the subject. The camera cannot factor that into it's TTL equation. So what is the point of TTL on the camera in a set up with off camera flashes in manual mode? </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>.... </p><p></p><p></p><p>It makes a difference to my decision on triggers. I could bite the bullet and pay the big bucks for a P-Wiz 'Super 5 Pack"(2 x Flex TT5, 1 mini TT1 and the AC3 gizmo, part 5 is the bag) this comes in at $750 to control two off camera flashes. Ouch. Godox and Younguo by comparisons do this for under $200 and Cactus splits the difference at $390 (all prices CDN). All but Cactus offer TTL on the remotes. Reviews of the P-Wiz TT5/TT1 system seems pretty good (although there are some who say give it a pass). Manual based triggers are less expensive (many need a PC-Sync input which none of my flashes have - but a hotshoe adapter fix is possible). </p><p></p><p></p><p>In the meantime I'm still experimenting in manual. ....</p><p></p><p>And one more thing, ... see very mixed opinions on whether a light meter is needed. Obviously not necessary, but is it worth the $280 I see for one that does flash? I have the app on my cell phone that gives ambient light but no good for flash.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fortkentdad, post: 601330, member: 24285"] ================= When I speak of getting to "M" I am referring to both on camera and for the flash. I got out of "auto" on the camera dial sometime ago and moved onto the "A" or "S" (never really looked at "P" but I think I should). Played with "M" a little bit - very little. I have to use "M" for my lensbaby as it is a fully manual lens so that was by necessity. My flashes have always been TTL and when I'd go to off camera it was with Nikon's CLS which worked for me. Until I bought a big umbrella style softbox that enclosed the flash - the line of sight was lost and CLS failed. I also bought a smaller rectangular softbox at the same time but in that case the CLS 'eye' was outside the box so it was OK. My venture to get the "M" off flash included watching many a youtube (love B&H's Event Space) and others. I also read a bit. And experimented. I know I'll need to buy a radio trigger, not sure which one. Younguo is cheap enough and seems to have satisfied users. Godox X1 is same price and has a nice system to offer. Pocket Wizards are "industry standard for professionals" but OMG - three times the price. And Phottix is no better price wise. Cactus splits the differences and offers some unique features. Still not made up my mind with that. Using CLS in the meantime, just not using my big umbrella softbox. From what you and others have said I can see that knowing how to set the camera to manual and have the flashes in manual would be a good thing - a very good thing to know how to do. Sometimes it makes sense to use TTL. With a camera mounted flash walking about at an event it makes sense. One thing that puzzels me though is how having TTL with off camera flash works. I can see on camera with one flash as the camera meters the light needs 'through the lens' aka TTL and sets the lighting accordingly to get the 'perfect' average lighting. But if I mix TTL flash and M flash and some of my off camera flashes are modified (in a softbox) or bounced how does the camera factor that into the TTL equation? And how does the camera TTl system know how close my off camera flashes are to my subject. Proximity to the subject makes all the difference. I see some systems offer 'pass through' TTL foot on the trigger (e.g. Cactus and some of the Pocket Wizards) but the remote flashes must be manual. In that situation how does the camera's TTL take into account the effect of the remote flashes. The camera's TTL system might know about the other flashes if it communicates with the trigger or if you use the on camera flash as a commander, but again, if modified in a softbox or otherwise, and proximity to the subject. The camera cannot factor that into it's TTL equation. So what is the point of TTL on the camera in a set up with off camera flashes in manual mode? .... It makes a difference to my decision on triggers. I could bite the bullet and pay the big bucks for a P-Wiz 'Super 5 Pack"(2 x Flex TT5, 1 mini TT1 and the AC3 gizmo, part 5 is the bag) this comes in at $750 to control two off camera flashes. Ouch. Godox and Younguo by comparisons do this for under $200 and Cactus splits the difference at $390 (all prices CDN). All but Cactus offer TTL on the remotes. Reviews of the P-Wiz TT5/TT1 system seems pretty good (although there are some who say give it a pass). Manual based triggers are less expensive (many need a PC-Sync input which none of my flashes have - but a hotshoe adapter fix is possible). In the meantime I'm still experimenting in manual. .... And one more thing, ... see very mixed opinions on whether a light meter is needed. Obviously not necessary, but is it worth the $280 I see for one that does flash? I have the app on my cell phone that gives ambient light but no good for flash. [/QUOTE]
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