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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 152718" data-attributes="member: 12496">Closeup filters hurt sharpness near the edge of the frame, less sharpness than in the center (an optical quality issue).&nbsp; Stopping the lens down considerably helps that, and also improves depth of field.&nbsp; &nbsp; Say to f/11 instead of f/7.&nbsp; Or to f/16 maybe, which can be a bit much sometimes, causing more losses due to diffraction, however other times the other gains offset that (due to depth of field and edge of frame with closeup filter)... and is worth it.&nbsp; Experiment a little with that, with a subject with detail to the edge, and a tripod to insure both steady and same view every time, and you should see it.A tripod is simply always best with such closeups.&nbsp; Closeup magnification also magnifies camera shake.&nbsp; It is indeed a tough problem.&nbsp; You can use the camera self-timer at a couple of seconds, so you can get your finger off of it and let the shake die down before the shutter trips.&nbsp; Alternately, a speedlight flash is very fast and can freeze camera shake, however this assumes sideways shake, since the flash cannot help focus differences from to and fro motion.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 152718, member: 12496"] Closeup filters hurt sharpness near the edge of the frame, less sharpness than in the center (an optical quality issue). Stopping the lens down considerably helps that, and also improves depth of field. Say to f/11 instead of f/7. Or to f/16 maybe, which can be a bit much sometimes, causing more losses due to diffraction, however other times the other gains offset that (due to depth of field and edge of frame with closeup filter)... and is worth it. Experiment a little with that, with a subject with detail to the edge, and a tripod to insure both steady and same view every time, and you should see it. A tripod is simply always best with such closeups. Closeup magnification also magnifies camera shake. It is indeed a tough problem. You can use the camera self-timer at a couple of seconds, so you can get your finger off of it and let the shake die down before the shutter trips. Alternately, a speedlight flash is very fast and can freeze camera shake, however this assumes sideways shake, since the flash cannot help focus differences from to and fro motion. [/QUOTE]

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