Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Learning
Flashes
Flash settings. Do i understand them correctly?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 350785" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Then yes, Flash Compensation is how we "correct" automatic TTL flash, to be the flash level we desire in our results. Digital cameras make this trivial now, since we can see what we are doing while still at the scene, and can fix it easily, any way we wish.</p><p></p><p>The term TTL has a few meanings. In the menu, it means Through The Lens metering, generally means "whatever the flash system can do". </p><p>In the flash system, there is TTL and TTL BL modes, different modes and reactions.</p><p></p><p>On the SB-400, and SB-700, and the camera internal flash too, the menu that selects TTL is actually TTL BL mode, Nikons default balanced flash mode.</p><p>This means for fill flash outdoors in bright sun (to reduce the harsh shadows on faces, etc), this default TTL BL mode automatically does flash compensation to not blast and overexpose the subject (already metered for the ambient), and it is also a very pleasing and proper result, lighting-wise (really good stuff - actually very necessary for peoples faces). The EV number is not shown, but it does this automatic flash compensation.</p><p></p><p>But Indoors, as main light (not fill level), sometimes TTL BL can underexpose, and sometimes a little +EV flash compensation is necessary. That does seem the opposite of your complaint though, however you are using fill flash with high ISO. That should also reduce your flash level (some automatic flash compensation, but you can still control what it does with your own flash compensation - all sources of flash compensation add to a final result).</p><p></p><p>In contrast to TTL BL mode, the other actual mode called TTL (not on your menu) is not fill flash, it comes ahead strong with full metered flash value, regardless of any ambient or not, and if outdoors for fill, it is necessary to use near -2 EV Flash Compensation for fill level. Indoors however, it often has advantages, not underexposing as much (either way is just a starting point for our adjustments however). </p><p>Selecting camera Spot metering switches the flash metering from TTL BL to be TTL mode. The flash does NOT do Spot metering, Spot is only about metering ambient, but it does switch flash metering mode. Ambient bright enough to meter (high ISO probably is) will be affected by Spot metering (but the flash metering won't be affected by Spot).</p><p></p><p>The SB-400 is a little lower powered flash than some, and bounce flash at f/5 probably does often need near ISO 800 (depends on ceiling, and height). As fill flash though, its needs are maybe a stop or so less.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Indoors, we have two main general choices, to ignore and subdue any (incandescent) ambient light ( black picture without flash), or choose to include it, make use of it, and use the flash as fill.</p><p></p><p>The big problem with allowing the incandescent light is that it is orange, and some fluorescent light is green, etc. This causes color problems in the image. </p><p>Two solutions, keep the ambient light subdued, out of the picture (with low ISO and fast shutter speeds, black if no flash). </p><p>Or we can add color filters on the flash, to make the flash be the same color as ambient, so then we can use Incandescent White Balance, etc.</p><p>There is no White Balance choice that can deal with different colors of light in the same picture.</p><p></p><p>Allowing just a trace of the incandescent light can be a plus, a warming effect, people like it. But too much is orange.</p><p>At low ISO, 1/60 second normally does that small trace. High ISO though, the ambient becomes the main light, and the flash is fill.</p><p></p><p>The problem (or advantage) of Auto ISO is that indoors (in light less bright than outdoors), ISO WILL ALWAYS BE HIGH.</p><p> (Nikon has made different choices about how Auto ISO affects flash, but on D3100 age models, AUTO ISO only depends on ambient, and it will be high indoors, flash or not). </p><p>High ISO is not necessarily considered a plus, but indoors, the flash is always working into high ISO. And we see the orange ambient better then. High ISO is choosing to see it.</p><p></p><p>The 1/60 second with flash (in camera P or A modes) is not a metered choice. Reach up and turn the flash power off, and you will see it change to slower... dunno, depends on ISO, but with low ISO, very much less than 1/60 second in dim light. Turn flash back on, and it jumps to 1/60. This is just a MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED WITH FLASH, because, well, because you are using flash instead, we don't need a slower shutter speed. This is not any intelligent choice by the metering system about the light requirement. It is just something that usually works OK, usually causing no problem. It is NOT to be confused with "optimum for our situation". <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Even with high ISO, we still have choices about the orange. We can choose to underexpose the ambient a bit, a stop or more, so we see it less well (it is our choice how we see it).</p><p></p><p>If we set -1 EV Exposure Compensation for that ambient purpose, this reduces the flash too, so it is necessary then to set +1 EV Flash Compensation to restore it.</p><p></p><p>Or we could use camera Manual mode, and set ambient exposure as we wish. The TTL flash is still automatic in any camera mode, so it still does its thing the same as before.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 350785, member: 12496"] Then yes, Flash Compensation is how we "correct" automatic TTL flash, to be the flash level we desire in our results. Digital cameras make this trivial now, since we can see what we are doing while still at the scene, and can fix it easily, any way we wish. The term TTL has a few meanings. In the menu, it means Through The Lens metering, generally means "whatever the flash system can do". In the flash system, there is TTL and TTL BL modes, different modes and reactions. On the SB-400, and SB-700, and the camera internal flash too, the menu that selects TTL is actually TTL BL mode, Nikons default balanced flash mode. This means for fill flash outdoors in bright sun (to reduce the harsh shadows on faces, etc), this default TTL BL mode automatically does flash compensation to not blast and overexpose the subject (already metered for the ambient), and it is also a very pleasing and proper result, lighting-wise (really good stuff - actually very necessary for peoples faces). The EV number is not shown, but it does this automatic flash compensation. But Indoors, as main light (not fill level), sometimes TTL BL can underexpose, and sometimes a little +EV flash compensation is necessary. That does seem the opposite of your complaint though, however you are using fill flash with high ISO. That should also reduce your flash level (some automatic flash compensation, but you can still control what it does with your own flash compensation - all sources of flash compensation add to a final result). In contrast to TTL BL mode, the other actual mode called TTL (not on your menu) is not fill flash, it comes ahead strong with full metered flash value, regardless of any ambient or not, and if outdoors for fill, it is necessary to use near -2 EV Flash Compensation for fill level. Indoors however, it often has advantages, not underexposing as much (either way is just a starting point for our adjustments however). Selecting camera Spot metering switches the flash metering from TTL BL to be TTL mode. The flash does NOT do Spot metering, Spot is only about metering ambient, but it does switch flash metering mode. Ambient bright enough to meter (high ISO probably is) will be affected by Spot metering (but the flash metering won't be affected by Spot). The SB-400 is a little lower powered flash than some, and bounce flash at f/5 probably does often need near ISO 800 (depends on ceiling, and height). As fill flash though, its needs are maybe a stop or so less. Indoors, we have two main general choices, to ignore and subdue any (incandescent) ambient light ( black picture without flash), or choose to include it, make use of it, and use the flash as fill. The big problem with allowing the incandescent light is that it is orange, and some fluorescent light is green, etc. This causes color problems in the image. Two solutions, keep the ambient light subdued, out of the picture (with low ISO and fast shutter speeds, black if no flash). Or we can add color filters on the flash, to make the flash be the same color as ambient, so then we can use Incandescent White Balance, etc. There is no White Balance choice that can deal with different colors of light in the same picture. Allowing just a trace of the incandescent light can be a plus, a warming effect, people like it. But too much is orange. At low ISO, 1/60 second normally does that small trace. High ISO though, the ambient becomes the main light, and the flash is fill. The problem (or advantage) of Auto ISO is that indoors (in light less bright than outdoors), ISO WILL ALWAYS BE HIGH. (Nikon has made different choices about how Auto ISO affects flash, but on D3100 age models, AUTO ISO only depends on ambient, and it will be high indoors, flash or not). High ISO is not necessarily considered a plus, but indoors, the flash is always working into high ISO. And we see the orange ambient better then. High ISO is choosing to see it. The 1/60 second with flash (in camera P or A modes) is not a metered choice. Reach up and turn the flash power off, and you will see it change to slower... dunno, depends on ISO, but with low ISO, very much less than 1/60 second in dim light. Turn flash back on, and it jumps to 1/60. This is just a MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED WITH FLASH, because, well, because you are using flash instead, we don't need a slower shutter speed. This is not any intelligent choice by the metering system about the light requirement. It is just something that usually works OK, usually causing no problem. It is NOT to be confused with "optimum for our situation". :) Even with high ISO, we still have choices about the orange. We can choose to underexpose the ambient a bit, a stop or more, so we see it less well (it is our choice how we see it). If we set -1 EV Exposure Compensation for that ambient purpose, this reduces the flash too, so it is necessary then to set +1 EV Flash Compensation to restore it. Or we could use camera Manual mode, and set ambient exposure as we wish. The TTL flash is still automatic in any camera mode, so it still does its thing the same as before. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Learning
Flashes
Flash settings. Do i understand them correctly?
Top
