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Flash lighting for old derelict cottage
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 368614" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>The D810 internal flash spec has a guide number of 39 (feet). At ISO 1600, this is x4 or GN 156. At f/8, this allows GN156/f8 = 19.5 feet range at full power (as main light). It is not main light here though.</p><p></p><p>The window light is your major light... see neck shadow at models left collar, in fold near left collar, left side of right collar, under left arm, on left side of right leg. High lights on right side, etc. The window makes the shadows, fill flash is frontal and just does enough to try to lighten them a bit. All of that worked well.</p><p></p><p>The window was your major light. The high ISO insures that is true. Not a thing wrong with that, shadow gradients are a wonderful effect, pretty much the whole point. Just saying that in TTL mode in strong ambient, the internal flash is TTL BL mode, and as such is reduced full light, not the main light. I think next time, I might try to angle the model and the frontal camera angle slightly more toward the light, just a bit.</p><p> </p><p>This TTL BL mode would be true of most speedights too (SB-700, YN565EX, etc), if using TTL mode (in presence of stronger ambient). Nikon is a TTL BL system, meaning, the flash is fill flash if there is ambient. You can select Spot Metering to force straight TTL mode, but the ambient complicates that considerably, since the ambient is what actually is Spot metered, and the high ISO makes it be the consideration. TTL BL just dials the flash power back to be lesser fill light level. The umbrella won't change that TTL aspect, but manual flash in an umbrella could.</p><p></p><p> TTL BL fill is good with major ambient like here. You can see the difference of what it actually does by shutting the flash door once for the same shot. Otherwise, you can use manual flash mode, and set it anyway you please. Overwhelm the window light if desired (not saying it is desired, just saying you have capabilities then, where as TTL is more point&shoot).</p><p></p><p>Lighting is a very big big subject, very many things are possible. Window light, reflectors, strong ambient or none, high ISO or not, umbrellas, manual or TTL flash, Commander... very many things can be done. Different subjects really though, it seems hard to combine it all into one sentence. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.scantips.com/g2/gorf.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>This is your histogram. Your color saturation would improve on this one if you raised the Levels Black point up to near where the data starts. This increases contrast to make the blacks be black instead of Gray. My 41 may be a bit much, but you see it as you go. This is a matter of preference, not a hard fact, but it is my preference. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>To do this type of work, esp to insure the cloth colors are accurate, you need to get a white card to correct white balance. I am not saying this one is off much, but all are always off a little. I use a $5 Porta Brace White Card from B&H. I have more expensive WhiBal cards, which are good, but the Porta Brace is just as good. Even white paper or white linen cloth can work pretty well, much better than nothing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 368614, member: 12496"] The D810 internal flash spec has a guide number of 39 (feet). At ISO 1600, this is x4 or GN 156. At f/8, this allows GN156/f8 = 19.5 feet range at full power (as main light). It is not main light here though. The window light is your major light... see neck shadow at models left collar, in fold near left collar, left side of right collar, under left arm, on left side of right leg. High lights on right side, etc. The window makes the shadows, fill flash is frontal and just does enough to try to lighten them a bit. All of that worked well. The window was your major light. The high ISO insures that is true. Not a thing wrong with that, shadow gradients are a wonderful effect, pretty much the whole point. Just saying that in TTL mode in strong ambient, the internal flash is TTL BL mode, and as such is reduced full light, not the main light. I think next time, I might try to angle the model and the frontal camera angle slightly more toward the light, just a bit. This TTL BL mode would be true of most speedights too (SB-700, YN565EX, etc), if using TTL mode (in presence of stronger ambient). Nikon is a TTL BL system, meaning, the flash is fill flash if there is ambient. You can select Spot Metering to force straight TTL mode, but the ambient complicates that considerably, since the ambient is what actually is Spot metered, and the high ISO makes it be the consideration. TTL BL just dials the flash power back to be lesser fill light level. The umbrella won't change that TTL aspect, but manual flash in an umbrella could. TTL BL fill is good with major ambient like here. You can see the difference of what it actually does by shutting the flash door once for the same shot. Otherwise, you can use manual flash mode, and set it anyway you please. Overwhelm the window light if desired (not saying it is desired, just saying you have capabilities then, where as TTL is more point&shoot). Lighting is a very big big subject, very many things are possible. Window light, reflectors, strong ambient or none, high ISO or not, umbrellas, manual or TTL flash, Commander... very many things can be done. Different subjects really though, it seems hard to combine it all into one sentence. :) [IMG]http://www.scantips.com/g2/gorf.jpg[/IMG] This is your histogram. Your color saturation would improve on this one if you raised the Levels Black point up to near where the data starts. This increases contrast to make the blacks be black instead of Gray. My 41 may be a bit much, but you see it as you go. This is a matter of preference, not a hard fact, but it is my preference. :) To do this type of work, esp to insure the cloth colors are accurate, you need to get a white card to correct white balance. I am not saying this one is off much, but all are always off a little. I use a $5 Porta Brace White Card from B&H. I have more expensive WhiBal cards, which are good, but the Porta Brace is just as good. Even white paper or white linen cloth can work pretty well, much better than nothing. [/QUOTE]
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