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<blockquote data-quote="Dave_W" data-source="post: 95577" data-attributes="member: 9521">The sharpness, or lack thereof, is not a function of megapixels, it's due to the fact your lens was focused on the scene outside the window rather than the girl on the table. For really good silhouettes, consider where they come from. Back before cameras, people of modest means would hire an artist to cut a silhouette of their loved ones out of black paper and then glue it to a sheet of white paper leaving nothing in the background to distract the eye. Consider re-composing this image so that the background is less cluttered. Then set your light meter on &quot;spot&quot; rather than matrix and meter for the lightest portion of your image so that the silhouette is completely under exposed, similar to what you've achieved in the above image. But the key is to insure your focus is set on the underexposed silhouette rather than the metered background. You can use focus lock to achieve this, as well as other possible ways.Here's an example where I metered for the lightest section of my image so that the darkest sections would be under exposed. It's not so much a true silhouette, per se, but has that same over and under exposed effect.[ATTACH]22146[/ATTACH]</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Dave_W, post: 95577, member: 9521"] The sharpness, or lack thereof, is not a function of megapixels, it's due to the fact your lens was focused on the scene outside the window rather than the girl on the table. For really good silhouettes, consider where they come from. Back before cameras, people of modest means would hire an artist to cut a silhouette of their loved ones out of black paper and then glue it to a sheet of white paper leaving nothing in the background to distract the eye. Consider re-composing this image so that the background is less cluttered. Then set your light meter on "spot" rather than matrix and meter for the lightest portion of your image so that the silhouette is completely under exposed, similar to what you've achieved in the above image. But the key is to insure your focus is set on the underexposed silhouette rather than the metered background. You can use focus lock to achieve this, as well as other possible ways. Here's an example where I metered for the lightest section of my image so that the darkest sections would be under exposed. It's not so much a true silhouette, per se, but has that same over and under exposed effect. [ATTACH=CONFIG]22146._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]

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