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First attempts with lights
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 533023" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Just meaning, the YN560 flashes are manual flash mode only. The YN565 (slightly more expense) can do the same manual mode, but it also allows automated TTL flash mode, which your camera can do with a hot shoe flash. One flash with this capability seems a very good thing.</p><p></p><p>You can see this difference with your cameras internal flash, in its Manual vs TTL flash modes. Manual is manual (you must set flash power level for every different situation and change), but TTL is automatic, more like a compact camera flash is automatic flash. The internal flash cannot bounce, and it is very limited in power, ISO 100 maybe 10 feet at f/4, or 4 feet at f/10.</p><p></p><p>We can use manual flash for most purposes, but then it is our job to set the flash power level for proper exposure of EVERY shot. Tweaking ONE manual flash is easy (but not automatic), by just watching the result on the camera rear LCD, and adjusting flash power to get the picture we want. Two or three tries, and we've got it. (this becomes a very different story with maybe four studio flashes, when a flash meter simplifies greatly).</p><p></p><p>But TTL flash is metered and automatically set by the camera metering system. This is a big plus for moving targets, camera aimed differently every time, when manual flash could not keep up. We still might have to tweak TTL results slightly, using Flash Compensation on the camera, but one such compensation typically works for about every shot in the room (same ceiling). Automation takes care of the changes if in similar situations.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1d.html" target="_blank">Bounce flash is the Good Stuff</a></p><p></p><p>When and if you have a hot shoe flash capable of bounce and TTL, then for a similar picture as the one you just posted, aim the hot shoe flash head up to bounce from the ceiling (assuming standing under a normal white ceiling not much more than about 3 meters high). EDIT: I said 9 thinking feet, but meant 3 meters).</p><p></p><p>Pull out the white bounce card (for slight forward fill, mostly for catchlights in the eyes). Set TTL flash mode and ISO 400, and maybe f/5 (for bounce, and bounce needs a lot of power). The ceiling becomes a huge umbrella up there, the lighting is very soft and good, and the ceiling more or less illuminates the entire room background. No deer-in-the-headlights direct flash look.</p><p></p><p>This is a very effective method when you can't or don't want to get the fixed lights out. Also it allows walk-around operation anywhere in the house, to follow the kids around.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>That is nice, a really good start, and you are not going to have any trouble. But just saying, perhaps ISO 3200 or 1/60 second is not the best usual working number goals? Perhaps much lower ISO and 1/200 second could have advantages.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 533023, member: 12496"] Just meaning, the YN560 flashes are manual flash mode only. The YN565 (slightly more expense) can do the same manual mode, but it also allows automated TTL flash mode, which your camera can do with a hot shoe flash. One flash with this capability seems a very good thing. You can see this difference with your cameras internal flash, in its Manual vs TTL flash modes. Manual is manual (you must set flash power level for every different situation and change), but TTL is automatic, more like a compact camera flash is automatic flash. The internal flash cannot bounce, and it is very limited in power, ISO 100 maybe 10 feet at f/4, or 4 feet at f/10. We can use manual flash for most purposes, but then it is our job to set the flash power level for proper exposure of EVERY shot. Tweaking ONE manual flash is easy (but not automatic), by just watching the result on the camera rear LCD, and adjusting flash power to get the picture we want. Two or three tries, and we've got it. (this becomes a very different story with maybe four studio flashes, when a flash meter simplifies greatly). But TTL flash is metered and automatically set by the camera metering system. This is a big plus for moving targets, camera aimed differently every time, when manual flash could not keep up. We still might have to tweak TTL results slightly, using Flash Compensation on the camera, but one such compensation typically works for about every shot in the room (same ceiling). Automation takes care of the changes if in similar situations. [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1d.html"]Bounce flash is the Good Stuff[/URL] When and if you have a hot shoe flash capable of bounce and TTL, then for a similar picture as the one you just posted, aim the hot shoe flash head up to bounce from the ceiling (assuming standing under a normal white ceiling not much more than about 3 meters high). EDIT: I said 9 thinking feet, but meant 3 meters). Pull out the white bounce card (for slight forward fill, mostly for catchlights in the eyes). Set TTL flash mode and ISO 400, and maybe f/5 (for bounce, and bounce needs a lot of power). The ceiling becomes a huge umbrella up there, the lighting is very soft and good, and the ceiling more or less illuminates the entire room background. No deer-in-the-headlights direct flash look. This is a very effective method when you can't or don't want to get the fixed lights out. Also it allows walk-around operation anywhere in the house, to follow the kids around. That is nice, a really good start, and you are not going to have any trouble. But just saying, perhaps ISO 3200 or 1/60 second is not the best usual working number goals? Perhaps much lower ISO and 1/200 second could have advantages. [/QUOTE]
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