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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 326438" data-attributes="member: 12496">Thanks for including all the data.  Makes understanding easy.I fear you are seriously clipping (overexposing) the white card, to make it unusable.  See the histogram?    That bright spot at far right is the white card.   Clipping it like this removes the color cast you are trying to see.  See it in AS SHOT histograms... the red and green components of it are clipped there. That clipping corrupts the color of the card.   I suppose your lights are high in front, making the white card the nearest thing to the lights, and it is already the brightest thing.   I would turn the camera horizontal, and put the white card a little behind the yarn (farther from lights), off to one side to allow cropping it out (a little below that bright spot maybe).    If it has to be this much closer than the yarn, then that might be the one place a gray card has advantage (a WhiBal card is good). Gray is harder to clip (its only advantage, white is likely more accurate, and more direct to the point of White Balance).But the picture seems unpleasantly dark, unlike any catalog I ever saw.  Catalogs are bright.   Feels like straining to see the yarn here, in the dark.   Needs more exposure (but watch out for the white card).  Could simply crank exposure up here in Raw.  Except the red yarn is probably bright enough (holding ALT key while increasing exposure shows its highlights start to clip real soon, at least on top.  Maybe the lighting could be made more even?  Or maybe the dark background is not the best choice.  It does hide the shadows cast by the lights, but maybe lighter gray, or even white?  I would experiment with it once.And notice that each color of yarn changes the shutter speed of your camera exposure.  Yet the lights are the same, and the setup is the same, exposure would be expected to be the same.  That is what reflective light meters do (which is not a plus).  But there is no reason the same one correct exposure would not be correct for all.   You could use Manual camera exposure, which after you experimented to get it right, which would stay the same for all.Don't overexpose, esp including the white card, but slight underexposure is no big deal, since Raw exposure can simply boost it back up. That boost is about the same effect as boosting ISO.Your ACR screen shows color profile is Adobe RGB.  But all computer monitors and web screens (and online printing places, and your default printer driver) standardize on sRGB.   This is a biggie.   Just click that line (below the ACR picture) that says Adobe RGB, and change it to sRGB.  This one click affects all future JPG outputs from ACR.   You will also want to change it in Photoshop menu:  Edit - Color Settings (so it won't fuss about the difference).Right, seriously avoid CFL when color is a concern.   <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></blockquote>

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