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Nikon DSLR Cameras
Out of Production DSLRs
D40/D40x
Faithful Color Reproduction
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<blockquote data-quote="Dyers" data-source="post: 325150" data-attributes="member: 27282"><p>Okay; that helps a lot. I think you've given me enough information to be able to find the bulbs I need; lower power to reduce heat, and to avoid the more expensive fixtures one needs to use with higher wattage lamps. Not going to concern myself with color temp. ratings, nor with designations such as "daylight" because I can correct whatever color the bulb introduces. Thank you very much.</p><p></p><p>You mention color clipping. I've heard audiophiles talk about clipping for 35 or more years, and while I have a vague idea of what that sounds like, I wouldn't want to have to try to explain it to anyone with the little bit of understanding I have. Used in this context, I'm kind of clueless. The first time I read about it's use in this way was in something you wrote, I believe in the article you referenced early on. What happens with color clipping; what would I be likely to see?</p><p></p><p>We sometimes need to photograph rather small, very reflective parts for sewing machines. With these, the color isn't as important as with the yarn, but we were still having lighting issues with them; intense hot spots, strong shadows, and harsh reflections. We built 3 frames of wood over which we stretched several layers of cheese cloth. These are only about 300mm square, but are fairly deep, about 75mm, and this allows them to stand in most any configuration to diffuse the light source(s). The yarn isn't reflective, and possibly due to the use of multiple light sources, and/or the black background, there isn't much shadow to contend with. What I do get are some hazy reflection of the light that bounces off the yarn on the black Formica we use as a seamless background, and I like that a lot. We do use a tripod for all of this work, and also the camera's self timer to avoid any camera movement when the shutter is released. An aperture of f11 is typical, as are very slow shutter speeds.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Which drivers do you suspect are the same; for Win7 & Win8, or for Spyder2 & Spyder4?</p><p></p><p>This has been enlightening, and immensely interesting. I didn't anticipate so much detail, so much individual attention in your responses, and I am very grateful for it. I want to get to work and put some of it to the test. I'll write more after trying out some of the yarns that have been more challenging so far.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dyers, post: 325150, member: 27282"] Okay; that helps a lot. I think you've given me enough information to be able to find the bulbs I need; lower power to reduce heat, and to avoid the more expensive fixtures one needs to use with higher wattage lamps. Not going to concern myself with color temp. ratings, nor with designations such as "daylight" because I can correct whatever color the bulb introduces. Thank you very much. You mention color clipping. I've heard audiophiles talk about clipping for 35 or more years, and while I have a vague idea of what that sounds like, I wouldn't want to have to try to explain it to anyone with the little bit of understanding I have. Used in this context, I'm kind of clueless. The first time I read about it's use in this way was in something you wrote, I believe in the article you referenced early on. What happens with color clipping; what would I be likely to see? We sometimes need to photograph rather small, very reflective parts for sewing machines. With these, the color isn't as important as with the yarn, but we were still having lighting issues with them; intense hot spots, strong shadows, and harsh reflections. We built 3 frames of wood over which we stretched several layers of cheese cloth. These are only about 300mm square, but are fairly deep, about 75mm, and this allows them to stand in most any configuration to diffuse the light source(s). The yarn isn't reflective, and possibly due to the use of multiple light sources, and/or the black background, there isn't much shadow to contend with. What I do get are some hazy reflection of the light that bounces off the yarn on the black Formica we use as a seamless background, and I like that a lot. We do use a tripod for all of this work, and also the camera's self timer to avoid any camera movement when the shutter is released. An aperture of f11 is typical, as are very slow shutter speeds. Which drivers do you suspect are the same; for Win7 & Win8, or for Spyder2 & Spyder4? This has been enlightening, and immensely interesting. I didn't anticipate so much detail, so much individual attention in your responses, and I am very grateful for it. I want to get to work and put some of it to the test. I'll write more after trying out some of the yarns that have been more challenging so far. [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
Out of Production DSLRs
D40/D40x
Faithful Color Reproduction
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