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Nikon DSLR Cameras
Out of Production DSLRs
D40/D40x
Faithful Color Reproduction
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<blockquote data-quote="Dyers" data-source="post: 324834" data-attributes="member: 27282"><p>I'm with the OP. Diagnosing a problem is sometimes more challenging than finding a fix. We've been chasing our tails about this for the better part of 2 years. When we read about white balance, and implemented it's use, there was a marked improvement in images taken under that specific light source (in this case, daylight CFL) when a wide variety of colors are present, but not when the colors present are near each other on the color wheel. We thought the white balance would solve the issues with the CFLs. Your explanations help better understand why it isn't the total solution. At first, our attempts to solve the issue were fairly logical, but as time passed without notable over-all improvement, and as logical solutions either escaped us, or failed, the attempts became more desperate. </p><p></p><p>Monitor calibration sounds right, like a correct part of the solution, but it left me wondering how one knows if progress has been made, or if the issue has just been exacerbated. We can spend countless hours trying to edit with the calibration results from one application, then calibrate using a different software only to find that the images we thought we were making look more true still look different. There are lots of pieces of software, and cool gadgets that each promise an exclusive solution to calibration, but I wonder if certainty can be found in using them; I'm beginning to wonder if monitor calibration isn't a little like the emperor's new clothes?</p><p></p><p>So, we've been given two likely means to solve our color issue. Using flash alone isn't likely to be helpful as the still life work we're doing with these yarns is rather close, and there isn't a white ceiling to bounce the flash. Years ago, I used what were marketed as "Grow-Lux" incandescent bulbs, but those colored the images towards blue. As someone suggested above, that's easy enough to correct in photo editing software (we currently use Photoshop CS3), and realize that will always be a part of the total solution. I have not tried other alternatives recently, and since the crack-down on incandescents, I don't even know what's still available. Light source is probably the single biggest readily affordable change we can make. What bulbs do you all use?</p><p></p><p>The second is raw. I know that BrWhatsit's D40 will shoot raw, that it's a lossless format, and not much else. That's an avenue I want to actively explore now, too. What might the work-flow of processing a raw image look like? Is Photoshop even the right software? Relatedly, if we shoot a bunch of images, offload them in jpg format which is lossy, edit, then save them as pngs, are those pngs still considered lossless?</p><p></p><p>Wayne; the article on color balance referenced in your post is very thorough, and is going to be a lot of help. One sitting with it was enough only to get a brief overview. It's not over my head, but it uses a language with which I'm not intimately familiar, so it takes longer to digest what I'm reading. The writer, Wayne Fulton (is that you?) talks about clicking on something white in the image that's in the same light as the subject (the white t-shirt vs. the white water in the rapids), and that's something I want to play with. A very low percentage of our images have any white; we usually shoot on a seamless background made from black Formica. Will it work to put something white just beside the subject that can be cropped out after color editing? Is a postage stamp sized white object big enough? Is a piece of printer photo paper worth trying, or would something spherical like a golf or ping-pong ball make better sense?</p><p></p><p>I've owned 5 cameras; an Argus C3 that had previously been my dad's, a mid-seventies Focal (K-Mart brand) 35mm SLR, an N90s, the only camera I will ever love, and two junky digital cameras I bought just for snap shots. The flash for his D40 is in need of repair, and the auto-focus isn't functioning (as I recall, the problem might be with the af lens, and not the body). I've been looking at other cameras, and settled on purchasing a D5300. I <em>think</em> this is something I need to do to 1. spend less time behind the camera, and 2. to spend less time in a photo editor. Your comments make me think the lighting, and raw issues are higher priorities that could use careful examination whatever camera we have; they're certainly more affordable. Are there any inherent problems with the D40 that suggest another camera is advisable sooner than later from your perspective?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dyers, post: 324834, member: 27282"] I'm with the OP. Diagnosing a problem is sometimes more challenging than finding a fix. We've been chasing our tails about this for the better part of 2 years. When we read about white balance, and implemented it's use, there was a marked improvement in images taken under that specific light source (in this case, daylight CFL) when a wide variety of colors are present, but not when the colors present are near each other on the color wheel. We thought the white balance would solve the issues with the CFLs. Your explanations help better understand why it isn't the total solution. At first, our attempts to solve the issue were fairly logical, but as time passed without notable over-all improvement, and as logical solutions either escaped us, or failed, the attempts became more desperate. Monitor calibration sounds right, like a correct part of the solution, but it left me wondering how one knows if progress has been made, or if the issue has just been exacerbated. We can spend countless hours trying to edit with the calibration results from one application, then calibrate using a different software only to find that the images we thought we were making look more true still look different. There are lots of pieces of software, and cool gadgets that each promise an exclusive solution to calibration, but I wonder if certainty can be found in using them; I'm beginning to wonder if monitor calibration isn't a little like the emperor's new clothes? So, we've been given two likely means to solve our color issue. Using flash alone isn't likely to be helpful as the still life work we're doing with these yarns is rather close, and there isn't a white ceiling to bounce the flash. Years ago, I used what were marketed as "Grow-Lux" incandescent bulbs, but those colored the images towards blue. As someone suggested above, that's easy enough to correct in photo editing software (we currently use Photoshop CS3), and realize that will always be a part of the total solution. I have not tried other alternatives recently, and since the crack-down on incandescents, I don't even know what's still available. Light source is probably the single biggest readily affordable change we can make. What bulbs do you all use? The second is raw. I know that BrWhatsit's D40 will shoot raw, that it's a lossless format, and not much else. That's an avenue I want to actively explore now, too. What might the work-flow of processing a raw image look like? Is Photoshop even the right software? Relatedly, if we shoot a bunch of images, offload them in jpg format which is lossy, edit, then save them as pngs, are those pngs still considered lossless? Wayne; the article on color balance referenced in your post is very thorough, and is going to be a lot of help. One sitting with it was enough only to get a brief overview. It's not over my head, but it uses a language with which I'm not intimately familiar, so it takes longer to digest what I'm reading. The writer, Wayne Fulton (is that you?) talks about clicking on something white in the image that's in the same light as the subject (the white t-shirt vs. the white water in the rapids), and that's something I want to play with. A very low percentage of our images have any white; we usually shoot on a seamless background made from black Formica. Will it work to put something white just beside the subject that can be cropped out after color editing? Is a postage stamp sized white object big enough? Is a piece of printer photo paper worth trying, or would something spherical like a golf or ping-pong ball make better sense? I've owned 5 cameras; an Argus C3 that had previously been my dad's, a mid-seventies Focal (K-Mart brand) 35mm SLR, an N90s, the only camera I will ever love, and two junky digital cameras I bought just for snap shots. The flash for his D40 is in need of repair, and the auto-focus isn't functioning (as I recall, the problem might be with the af lens, and not the body). I've been looking at other cameras, and settled on purchasing a D5300. I [I]think[/I] this is something I need to do to 1. spend less time behind the camera, and 2. to spend less time in a photo editor. Your comments make me think the lighting, and raw issues are higher priorities that could use careful examination whatever camera we have; they're certainly more affordable. Are there any inherent problems with the D40 that suggest another camera is advisable sooner than later from your perspective? [/QUOTE]
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Faithful Color Reproduction
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