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Photography Q&A
Exposure compensation and exposure lock
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 781923" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>The photo composition in the end is what you base the decision on.</p><p></p><p>Matrix metering is usually best, and the newer the camera the better it tends to work. The camera programming analyzes the scene and tries to make a correct exposure based on what is visible.</p><p></p><p>Spot metering would be something to try if photos are being over-exposed if the subject of interest is very light and the surrounding scene very dark. A portrait in low-key lighting is an example. You might set to spot metering and use the face as the spot. And that can work in the opposite way too. There was a time with my D80 where I used spot metering all the time when I took photos of my wristwatch collection. But upgrading my camera body after that I mostly stick to matrix metering as it works better than it did on the D80. But if I am low-key lighting with a white dial I certainly switch to spot meter.</p><p></p><p>Center-weighted is pretty much spot metering on a larger area in the center of the frame. It really is how many auto-exposure film cameras worked early. And if you wanted to meter on a face that will be off to the side, then you would use that Exposure Lock feature to meter the shot and then recompose and focus the way you want.</p><p></p><p>Exposure compensation can be used with all of these modes. Generally if you disagree with the camera, dial in some negative or positive exposure compensation to fine-tune. It's more of an issue if you are blowing out details in highlights or losing too much detail in a shadow.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 781923, member: 48483"] The photo composition in the end is what you base the decision on. Matrix metering is usually best, and the newer the camera the better it tends to work. The camera programming analyzes the scene and tries to make a correct exposure based on what is visible. Spot metering would be something to try if photos are being over-exposed if the subject of interest is very light and the surrounding scene very dark. A portrait in low-key lighting is an example. You might set to spot metering and use the face as the spot. And that can work in the opposite way too. There was a time with my D80 where I used spot metering all the time when I took photos of my wristwatch collection. But upgrading my camera body after that I mostly stick to matrix metering as it works better than it did on the D80. But if I am low-key lighting with a white dial I certainly switch to spot meter. Center-weighted is pretty much spot metering on a larger area in the center of the frame. It really is how many auto-exposure film cameras worked early. And if you wanted to meter on a face that will be off to the side, then you would use that Exposure Lock feature to meter the shot and then recompose and focus the way you want. Exposure compensation can be used with all of these modes. Generally if you disagree with the camera, dial in some negative or positive exposure compensation to fine-tune. It's more of an issue if you are blowing out details in highlights or losing too much detail in a shadow. [/QUOTE]
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Exposure compensation and exposure lock
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