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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 592607" data-attributes="member: 16090"><p>1. A D3300 with 35mm F1.8DX retails for less than us$500 here in India, most of the high end zooms costs much more. A 35mm on DX has the same FOV of a 50mm on FX. So if you have 35mmFX on FX camera and an 85mm on DX, the gap can be filled by a 35mm on DX (50mm eq.), so you have now 35mm, 50mm and 120mm on three cameras, with low investment. I know that juggling three cameras can be taxing at times, but you get a lot of redundancy.</p><p></p><p>2. Formatting a card in camera ensures that the file system is consistent with the body. The reason I format every time I charge the batter is that I get between 400 and 800 shots per charge. It takes time to read more files so after I archive the RAW images I clear the card.</p><p></p><p>3. Unless you want to use the jpeg immediately, I find no reason to shoot RAW+jpeg. With any Nikon software - NX-D or NXi you can convert all your RAW files to jpeg in one go. If you shoot RAW, you need not bother about some settings, which may slow down the burst rate :</p><p>. WB</p><p>. Distortion settings</p><p>. Image settings</p><p>. Active D Light (for recovering shadows/highlights)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aroy, post: 592607, member: 16090"] 1. A D3300 with 35mm F1.8DX retails for less than us$500 here in India, most of the high end zooms costs much more. A 35mm on DX has the same FOV of a 50mm on FX. So if you have 35mmFX on FX camera and an 85mm on DX, the gap can be filled by a 35mm on DX (50mm eq.), so you have now 35mm, 50mm and 120mm on three cameras, with low investment. I know that juggling three cameras can be taxing at times, but you get a lot of redundancy. 2. Formatting a card in camera ensures that the file system is consistent with the body. The reason I format every time I charge the batter is that I get between 400 and 800 shots per charge. It takes time to read more files so after I archive the RAW images I clear the card. 3. Unless you want to use the jpeg immediately, I find no reason to shoot RAW+jpeg. With any Nikon software - NX-D or NXi you can convert all your RAW files to jpeg in one go. If you shoot RAW, you need not bother about some settings, which may slow down the burst rate : . WB . Distortion settings . Image settings . Active D Light (for recovering shadows/highlights) [/QUOTE]
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