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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3100
Editing RAW Images
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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 367533" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p>The thing a new RAW shooter needs to wrap their head around is this:</p><p></p><p>RAW = All the information captured by the camera sensor.</p><p>JPEG = One specific <strong><em>and permanent</em></strong> application of imaging parameters to the sensor information.</p><p></p><p>When you look at a RAW file you will generally get the default interpretation of the image information defined by your software. As stated, Nikon imaging products will generally pick up on the camera settings and give you an initial approximation of the in-camera JPEG preview you saw when you reviewed it. Other programs, like Lightroom and Adobe Camera RAW, will us their default (generally referred to as "Adobe Standard"), but there are Nikon specific profiles available, and not only can you change it with a simple click, but in Lightroom you can set it up so a different profile (i.e. Camera Vivid) is applied instead as a part of the import process. You can do the same with sharpness, noise reduction, etc. </p><p></p><p>Here's the key:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Shoot jpeg and nail it you can save a lot of time in post </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Shoot jpeg and misfire and you may lose the shot entirely </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Shoot in RAW and as long as you expose properly you can <em>always</em> get the "nailed" jpeg image, even when your camera settings missed it by a mile </li> </ul><p></p><p>Ever set the WB to fluorescent and then forget when you stepped outside to grab that Eagle flying by? RAW doesn't care that your bird is an amazing shade of blue - move a slider and it's perfect. Ever use custom settings to oversaturate something and then blow out a flower shot? RAW doesn't care because it's profile neutral and you can apply and reapply a million different camera profiles until you find one you like - and it's all non-destructive!!</p><p></p><p>And <strong><em>that</em></strong> is the biggest advantage of all when working with RAW. Screw up the processing and you can go back, because the changes are saved separate from the original file. JPEG? One bad adjustment and if your workflow doesn't involve backing up or saving your edit under a new name and you've lost your original forever.</p><p></p><p><em>Yes</em>, working in RAW is more time consuming than shooting perfect JPEGs straight out of camera. How much more depends on what you want to do and how well you know your software. After 3 years of shooting a basic edit (i.e. one that replicates what would have come straight out of the camera in a JPEG) takes me under a minute in Lightroom. With 100 photos that's still 2 hours of my life, but it's 100 photos processed as perfectly as I could possibly get them out of camera. I know guys who have been shooting for decades who still bungle a jpeg SOOC, but their job is dependent more on turn around time than anything (i.e. news photographers). When the photo is the more important than the time spent they will all tell you that they switch to RAW. My take is if you want great, easy photos then there are some amazing Point and Shoots out there and you should have stuck with them (I still use mine for contest shots that require SOOC shots - or my iPhone!!). Shooting a DSLR in JPEG only is like buying a 120 piece MAC toolset and just using the hammers. It'll get you exactly what you want sometimes, but for the inexperienced carpenter it's a big waste of money.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 367533, member: 9240"] The thing a new RAW shooter needs to wrap their head around is this: RAW = All the information captured by the camera sensor. JPEG = One specific [B][I]and permanent[/I][/B] application of imaging parameters to the sensor information. When you look at a RAW file you will generally get the default interpretation of the image information defined by your software. As stated, Nikon imaging products will generally pick up on the camera settings and give you an initial approximation of the in-camera JPEG preview you saw when you reviewed it. Other programs, like Lightroom and Adobe Camera RAW, will us their default (generally referred to as "Adobe Standard"), but there are Nikon specific profiles available, and not only can you change it with a simple click, but in Lightroom you can set it up so a different profile (i.e. Camera Vivid) is applied instead as a part of the import process. You can do the same with sharpness, noise reduction, etc. Here's the key: [LIST] [*]Shoot jpeg and nail it you can save a lot of time in post [*]Shoot jpeg and misfire and you may lose the shot entirely [*]Shoot in RAW and as long as you expose properly you can [I]always[/I] get the "nailed" jpeg image, even when your camera settings missed it by a mile [/LIST] Ever set the WB to fluorescent and then forget when you stepped outside to grab that Eagle flying by? RAW doesn't care that your bird is an amazing shade of blue - move a slider and it's perfect. Ever use custom settings to oversaturate something and then blow out a flower shot? RAW doesn't care because it's profile neutral and you can apply and reapply a million different camera profiles until you find one you like - and it's all non-destructive!! And [B][I]that[/I][/B] is the biggest advantage of all when working with RAW. Screw up the processing and you can go back, because the changes are saved separate from the original file. JPEG? One bad adjustment and if your workflow doesn't involve backing up or saving your edit under a new name and you've lost your original forever. [I]Yes[/I], working in RAW is more time consuming than shooting perfect JPEGs straight out of camera. How much more depends on what you want to do and how well you know your software. After 3 years of shooting a basic edit (i.e. one that replicates what would have come straight out of the camera in a JPEG) takes me under a minute in Lightroom. With 100 photos that's still 2 hours of my life, but it's 100 photos processed as perfectly as I could possibly get them out of camera. I know guys who have been shooting for decades who still bungle a jpeg SOOC, but their job is dependent more on turn around time than anything (i.e. news photographers). When the photo is the more important than the time spent they will all tell you that they switch to RAW. My take is if you want great, easy photos then there are some amazing Point and Shoots out there and you should have stuck with them (I still use mine for contest shots that require SOOC shots - or my iPhone!!). Shooting a DSLR in JPEG only is like buying a 120 piece MAC toolset and just using the hammers. It'll get you exactly what you want sometimes, but for the inexperienced carpenter it's a big waste of money. [/QUOTE]
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