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General Photography
Portrait
Dr. Randy Soloman : Professional Head Shot - for literature, articles, web presence
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert Mitchell" data-source="post: 95196" data-attributes="member: 11282"><p>Hi Glenn,</p><p></p><p>I never shoot any portraits using Mirror Up. There's no reason to when using strobes. 1/125s is a standard and generic sync speed that works most strobes, triggers and DSLR's. In some cases you can push sync speed but that's most often done when capturing action or when trying to reduce the ambient contribution on location and outdoors.</p><p></p><p>Remember that even though the shutter stays open for 1/125s, the burst of light from a strobe is usually 1/800s or better and in many cases it's up around 1/2000s. That becomes your 'effective' shutter speed when there is no ambient contribution, such as when in the studio or an indoor location that doesn't have Sun pouring in through windows.</p><p></p><p>Shooting on location is another story but in a controlled environment, it's not a problem. You can demonstrate this for yourself by setting up a flash indoors in a room that doesn't have ambient contribution from the Sun. Typically a room lamp and ambient room light isn't a factor. Trigger the flash and take a shot at 1/125s. Next go to maximum sync. Again, this is a combination of camera, trigger and strobe that determines what your maximum sync will be. Let's say it's 1/250s. Take a shot. You won't see any difference between the first and second shot. </p><p></p><p>Now take a shot at 1/60s. And then take a shot at 1/30s. You should see not difference and all shots should give you a black frame.</p><p></p><p>As I stated above, this is because you have no ambient contribution, thus making the flash duration of the strobe the effective shutter speed. I shoot with Elinchrom RX series strobes and the flash duration is 1/2050s and the burst of light is only recorded for that time, not the 1/125s I use for sync.</p><p></p><p>BTW, got your PM. I didn't forget about you. Give me some time and I'll reply a bit later.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert Mitchell, post: 95196, member: 11282"] Hi Glenn, I never shoot any portraits using Mirror Up. There's no reason to when using strobes. 1/125s is a standard and generic sync speed that works most strobes, triggers and DSLR's. In some cases you can push sync speed but that's most often done when capturing action or when trying to reduce the ambient contribution on location and outdoors. Remember that even though the shutter stays open for 1/125s, the burst of light from a strobe is usually 1/800s or better and in many cases it's up around 1/2000s. That becomes your 'effective' shutter speed when there is no ambient contribution, such as when in the studio or an indoor location that doesn't have Sun pouring in through windows. Shooting on location is another story but in a controlled environment, it's not a problem. You can demonstrate this for yourself by setting up a flash indoors in a room that doesn't have ambient contribution from the Sun. Typically a room lamp and ambient room light isn't a factor. Trigger the flash and take a shot at 1/125s. Next go to maximum sync. Again, this is a combination of camera, trigger and strobe that determines what your maximum sync will be. Let's say it's 1/250s. Take a shot. You won't see any difference between the first and second shot. Now take a shot at 1/60s. And then take a shot at 1/30s. You should see not difference and all shots should give you a black frame. As I stated above, this is because you have no ambient contribution, thus making the flash duration of the strobe the effective shutter speed. I shoot with Elinchrom RX series strobes and the flash duration is 1/2050s and the burst of light is only recorded for that time, not the 1/125s I use for sync. BTW, got your PM. I didn't forget about you. Give me some time and I'll reply a bit later. [/QUOTE]
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Dr. Randy Soloman : Professional Head Shot - for literature, articles, web presence
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