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General Photography
Wedding
Doing a wedding under protest.
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 428172" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>There is absolutely no reason to use f/1.8. For Bounce indoors in houses, I routinely use ISO 400 f/4. A 10 foot ceiling allows f/5.6, and a 8 foot ceiling even more, but f/4 is good to keep the flash recycle fast. f/4 is especially good on a f/2.8 lens.</p><p></p><p>Auto white balance is no good, esp not for flash. The camera manuals sort of come out and say don't use Auto WB with flash (D7100 manual, page 90). Plus flash color varies with power level, and of course, from flash unit to flash unit. Flash makes it be time to learn to handle white balance. Adobe Camera Raw (such as Lightroom) makes it easy. Learn it now and use it the rest of your career. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Often there are naturally occurring white things in many of our pictures. A piece of paper or china plate or a white T-shirt or a picket fence or church steeple... These may not be pure neutral white, but items intended to look white are very often much better than nothing. In your picture, the white door frame is halfway fair, esp the thinner white strip at left (where the gold trim plate is).</p><p></p><p>A $5 white balance card (Porta Brace from B&H) makes it be a very accurate white spot, always works perfectly. Just include one in the first session picture test shot, and the trivially correct all of them perfectly with one click. Easiest thing possible.</p><p></p><p>Also Lightroom has its temperature and tint sliders, if nothing else, just slide each one black and forth, and the good right spot just jumps out at us. But a simple click of the White Balance Tool on a good known white spot works best of all.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/whitebalance.html" target="_blank">White Balance Correction, with or without Raw</a> </p><p></p><p>If into Raw, then also <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/shootraw.html" target="_blank">Why shoot Raw?</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 428172, member: 12496"] There is absolutely no reason to use f/1.8. For Bounce indoors in houses, I routinely use ISO 400 f/4. A 10 foot ceiling allows f/5.6, and a 8 foot ceiling even more, but f/4 is good to keep the flash recycle fast. f/4 is especially good on a f/2.8 lens. Auto white balance is no good, esp not for flash. The camera manuals sort of come out and say don't use Auto WB with flash (D7100 manual, page 90). Plus flash color varies with power level, and of course, from flash unit to flash unit. Flash makes it be time to learn to handle white balance. Adobe Camera Raw (such as Lightroom) makes it easy. Learn it now and use it the rest of your career. :) Often there are naturally occurring white things in many of our pictures. A piece of paper or china plate or a white T-shirt or a picket fence or church steeple... These may not be pure neutral white, but items intended to look white are very often much better than nothing. In your picture, the white door frame is halfway fair, esp the thinner white strip at left (where the gold trim plate is). A $5 white balance card (Porta Brace from B&H) makes it be a very accurate white spot, always works perfectly. Just include one in the first session picture test shot, and the trivially correct all of them perfectly with one click. Easiest thing possible. Also Lightroom has its temperature and tint sliders, if nothing else, just slide each one black and forth, and the good right spot just jumps out at us. But a simple click of the White Balance Tool on a good known white spot works best of all. [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/whitebalance.html"]White Balance Correction, with or without Raw[/URL] If into Raw, then also [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/shootraw.html"]Why shoot Raw?[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Doing a wedding under protest.
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